Desktop GPU Video card update/upgrade H3LL !           
                   Watch out for  old GPU cards in a new PC for sure 2020 and newer PC's that block all older cards ,I avoid PCs that are 100% UEFI class3 mode) see why it can suck here.
                    Lets talk water cooling: (some GPUs' at or over 200watts love to over heat)
                    or the problem really is just wrong usage of video adapters (port connected inline)  This is common if the new card does not do what your old monitor needs (DP card and monitor is DVI only?)
I made shorter list here:

This page does not cover dead PC's as I will cover only GPU  card problems here (or as Gill Bates calls them "ISSUES")
The #1 all time problem is bottom fishing (not used cards, I love used cards) but buying new cards from 12,000, miles away, on fleabay. (NewEgg.com will not lie)
Vast cards are sold there, calling a card a GTX1050 or same in better  "TI" grade. (
Titanium Grade = faster)
The bad guys, sell 1050's cards with old 2012 Kepler GPU chips  28nm KEPLER, it  is not series 10 card.,the 2 clues are 28nm told buy sellers and the 900MHz clock rate is wrong, for the new PASCAL, 14nm process @Samsung foundary.
Some are 16nm (per here)
Before buying any card read the spec. for said card first and read the bench marks too.
The best cards for the cash new are the 1050.
If buying used, and PSU is 700watts, the GTX560, 750, 480, 570 are the best used cards, bang for the buck but are for sure space heaters, they belch out, 200+ watts of heat to the room you live in. (waste) and are not green.
The 1050 is green, ok at 75watts or less. and great for gaming. This card never has and AUX jack. AUX 12vdc 6 or 8 pin jack that your PSU must power.
My comments here do not try to guess what is best for you, just what many persons might do to game better or run engineering software or medium grade video rendering apps.

The  PC ran great before you added a new GPU card?
Most gamers are going to buy a card that supports DirectX 12 GTX640 up (newer)  or
Radeon R7 240 up.  Some older Nvidia cards now have DX12 upgrade.(ask them?)
A GTX1050ti is  great choiceand with  no new PSU needed,  or  and older  AMD/ATI  ----R9-380(x) (200watts).
DX12 is backward compatible and the game decides this and forget DX9 for XP it's dead.)
If flush with cash, buy the 16 series, of GPU cards. (GTX1650 or 60.) Look here to see how the perform, or RTX series.
The first rules of newer GPU are: (warning some lame PCs have no x16 slot, seen on  some SFF dinky PCs)
  1. The new card must fit and not hit anything. (not hit the card cages inside PC or DVD or HDD drives, or well lots of things)
  2. The PCI-express card must not be inserted in to a PCI (non express) slot or boom happens, the X16 slots is the correct slot and is most  times the highest slot  (desktops towers)
  3. The PSU must handle  the extra power needed to run the new card,  old cards may need a 700watt PSU, the GTX1050 never does, (unless PSU is 240 watts, toy grade)
  4. The Video GPU card may need Aux power like most do that are high end gaming, GTX16xx series up  or RTX.  Some need 2 AUX cables or will be born dead.
  5. Some junk class and  cheap  PCs, the main X16 slot for GPU is limted to 24watts (SFF dinky do , PCs) buy only full sized tower PCs, not SFF ever)
  6. The monitor you  own must have the correct cable to match your new cards PORT, the one you chose , most times that be a DP or HDMI if using TV as a monitor.
  7. Some PCs can overheat with high wattage GPU card installed, 100-200 extra watts, you may need to add a case fan.
Not having a newer V2.3 PSU and the 2 AUX cables below are missing if your GPU has AUX jacks.( auxilliary power jacks this means. (It means the card uses lots of power or fails))
  • PCs can  come with no GPU card , and has  Core  iGPU engine in the CORE processor deep inside it.
  • A high end GPU card, may need a bigger 500watt PSU, or more.  R8-380 does.
  • Step one is in Device manager remove the GPU driver first or right click it and pick uninstall or disable it. This shuts down the main GPU driver, forcing the newer card to PnP, (plug  and play)
  • Open the PC case and replace the battery  Make sure the RTC coin cell is not dead
  • Next install the new GPU card, and move the video cable to the new Video port, DVI,HDMI or DP.
  • If the PC acts dead? do the long hard reset.
  • If the PC or some motherboard  was just found in fleamarket , make sure all jumpers on the mobo are set correctly (RTM read your matching manual)
  • By now at least the monitor shows BIOS screens and the BIOS hot keys all work. (Dell F2 and HP key  ESC + F1) or the like based on your PCs manual, (RTM)
  • If using a video PORT  adapter device,  make sure it is correct and not  wrong usage of video adapters
  • Some Video cards fail due to BIOS setting wrong (OPROM turned off, or Video GPU not set to AUTO.)
  • Do not hot swap any  parts inside any PC. or boom or smoke happens.
  • If PC fails to show screen data of any kind , BIOS Dead, no text, no text errors, or no OEM logo's , then do a strip down test.
  • Now let or force windows to upgrade your driver.
Just photos of common parts below, and unique problems found with GPU upgrades.

This 2 jacks here (if seen) are never optional, some need at least 13 amps each from the PSU 2 rails that feed this card.
Some need 365watts just for the card, 100 to 200 watts is more common today. 
The RX Vega has two, 8 pin aux, jacks (6 yellow wires at  6 x 9amps is 54amps and 648watts but 345w possible ) The PSU must be up to that task, of not the card dead, card artifacting or crashing.
That set of AUX jacks yell,  over 75watts needed for sure.

The correct PSU plugs are here. Note modern 3 yellow wires not 2.  The above card need these 2 cables (ATX PSU spec . v.2.3 or higher)
A RTX2080 needs 2 cables, 6 and 8, do not leave either unplugged. (use adapters if you must or a better PSU)


THE  video card can use any of the 2 left below photos cable, but never that EPS  8pin, ok.
That  Atx12v is mostly for CPU VRM's plugged in to all modern motherboards MOBO.
The green/blue sense pins are NOT POWER they are feed back for kelvin load sensing and correction. As you can see, the 8pin is the most powerful, see why, 3 yellow wires, and good to 27 amps.
What matters is the # of yellow cable wires from GPU to PSU,  more is best. (the GPU designre knows how many to use, do not use less)
Top High end GPU cards use connectors , that can say handle 200watts, some need 300w. or RX Vega at 345watts just the card for $500. with two 8 pin jacks seen here.(use a 700w PSU)
The RTX2080 (some) have one 8 pin and one 6pin jack and the card comes with 2 adaptors to pull this off. (many PSU have on PCIe 8pin plug)




The magic split , the nobody understands and not one card maker publishes this. (sadly)
First off no 2 cards are the same ( not same SKU#). The currents on say the 3 rails add up 1 one number,  (say 200w) but the split is NOT TOLD)
Why does that matter, easy, picking a PSU.  (so one could just guess.,  (200watts is 17 amps lacking split data make sure all 12vdc rails can do 17 amps or more) crude but effective.)
A Corsair VS Series, VS500, 500 Watt, has a 40amp 12v rail.
New PSU do not have 2 to 5 ,12vdc rails now, new fire rules nos allow a single 40amp and larger single rail, and lots of yellow wires landing on a single point in the PSU.

New PSU's have single  +12vdc rail but with up to 8 yellow wires leaving that PSU solder pad. (new rules now)
The older PSU's had  up to 4 , +12vdc rails. (real or virtual rails) and each with its own spec. for power.
Even older PSU's have huge amp ratings on +5v and 3.3v rails.  and very little on +12vdc. ( finding new PSU  that has that but addes lots of power on the +12vdc rail can be a hair puller) The cure is not use PCs that old.
This means LOOK and see what you have for yellow jack/plugs, total amp ratings each and if that is sufficient to run your new GPU card.
Below is childs dream, that the splits are equal.
You could measure  it, if you wanted to with any amp clamp ammeter. (I have, and know for fact the splits are not equal)
The truth is  a 250 watt card might split as 50w(pci) Aux1= 70 and Aux1= 130watts) THE CARD MAKER NEVER TELLS THIS SECRET, so we learn to be careful. There is VRM split.
 

I use a 700w PSU so it is never and issue for power and can use any GPU card I want.
My DPS 700w can do 50amps combined on the 12vdc RAILs. (2 yellow wires all (pin10/11)) at the  24pin PSU jack  , and are limited to 18AWG spec or the pins MOLEX 10amps each is 20 amps.
The limit on the 18AWG varies by length. and how much noise the logic can stand. 600mV is spec, (0.600 volts noise) ATX spec. 18AWG IS LIMITED TO 10 AMPS TOO. (for noise not catching fire)
This is why a GPU card has AUX jacks, if I was in charge all would have 1 jack if card is over 25watts.
The limit on my motherboard (worst case is the lame 12vdc power traces to the PCI slots.) 
This is the only true limit (not 12x20 or  240watts) Way less , in fact 25 to 75watts max do to that weak trace) and is not bused, or power planed it is stinky rotten daisy chained noise maker.
Rails (PSU 12vdc rail , then up to 2 or more on card RAILS, VRM's)
Facts are the GPU cards have up to 3 Power  rails and are seperate and have 3 separate GPU VRM regulators. ( best site covering that is here,  very good.)
If you see 2 aux jacks that means the card needs all 3 power sources or the card fail !  (even BIOS screens dead or windows, fail even before running games)
Most times if 3 rails?, the PCI-e B1 , 5 pin group socket rail can be limited per spec, at very small 25 to 50 watts and  not the PCI-E spec normal of 75watts.
Most card makers with 3 rails only need very tiny power on the PCI slot, for very low power address and data logic. (PCI) even only 5 watts.
A GPU card designer will try  to keep the PCIe pin set A1/B1 12v five pin group using  less current, due to not wanting to overload the MOBO 12vdc  POWER traces.(PCB  lay out limits)
That means the 2 upper rails use  more current. ( the card makers will put the lions share of power on 1 or both AUX JACKs,  (even not EQUAL AT ALL)
Best of all is have only one PCIe card in the PC until the GPU cards runs solid gaming. Then add other cards, hopeing not to overload ,PCI power pins.
In  this case I use a 700w PSU.  (my PC uses 400 watts , 200 the card, 100 CPU and 100watt for all else) and 300 extra watts, (the extra watt rating gives me margin , less noise and OMG better quality PSU.)
Some PCs (mine) have 4  or more HDD, I add for that too. 25watts per pop.
LAME: ( as in no power plane +12vdc the cheap bums)
Some lame PCs have the 5 ganged power pins in the PCI-e slots, run as daisy chained ,weak and tiny 1/8th inch 3mm trace, 1oz/sqft copper PCB.  (the maker cries 25watts max)
This can be overloaded easy, with other PCI- cards in the PC like USB3 cards can do. (1 amp per port too)
I have  PC's like have lame 12vdc traces,  a Dell 780 and 790 that run great with weak 25watt slots, using my worst cards a 200watt .
This is because the card uses very little power from the A1/B1 PCI Power  pin group. (and uses AUX power mostly)
So now you learned what to do , TRY IT !  ( I did power overload tests on motherboards to learn all this)


A modular PSU is nice feature,  and allowing less cables for better cooling and air flows inside  PC.


Next is PSU jacks seen on all modern PSU  , but forget  floppy and no more 4 pin DVD/HDD PATA RELIC IDE power plugs.
The first 4 plugs below are PRIME now. ATX SPEC.
This is my DPS grade PSU, with removable pig tails.





The Ugly Ducklings we own: (and to avoid)
Never buy tiny DESK TOP PCs,  buy full sized and RTM, read the manual to make sure it has no  limited lame 25 to 50watt, PCI-e slots

Last is this very odd duck power limit  horror , not full ATX 75watt spec...  (that means while gaming it might  BSOD'S at full speed )
Even the full sized Dell 790 , not just SFF PCs. small form factor.
That being said, my 790 MT PC runs a 200watt GPU card all day with FURMARK running. Devil be damned the slot limit. (this is because the card uses very little power off this slot)

This can fail only if you are gaming.
Learn to read the spec on your mobo, first.

That 35watts means GPU cards (or some USB3 cards), a 75watt GPU card might fail here as you suspect.
The toy grade MOBO has no +12vdc POWER PLANE to run the B1 power group.!  They daisy chained the thing, so the last card gets the most noise !

Power is a complex topic, static and dynamics (power = watts) and the PSU is first, it must support the currents on the power rails used.


The power traces here are DINKY DO. (tiny and lame) B1 pin set of  5 pins in group +12vdc.
My PSU feeds 50amps to pin10/11 (24p) and this trace burns up if shorted. or if overloaded makes a ton of noise. It is marked 4 layers (top /bottom /ground and  guess at 3.3vdc plane)
Lame duck #1
Some  jokers don't tell you all PCI slots can do 35watts or only this one?  Some makers do rate each slot with different wattages on each one. (or a set of combined rules)


The PCIe power spec. ATX on +12vdc is 75 watts, some  PCs even go 2 times that. (works stations can and servers)
The 8-pin PCI Express connector could be mistaken with the EPS12V connector,(if you do that BOOM it blows UP) which is mainly used for powering SMP and multi-core systems ,servers.


Then there are PCs and mobo that are not truly complaint to this.  (power compliance and data communications compliance are the same thing, the power limits can be wrong or ignored by the maker)
  • PCI Express x16 Graphics 150 W-ATX Specification—Published in October 2004, this standard defines a six-pin (2x3) auxiliary power connector capable of delivering an additional 75 W to a graphics card directly from the power supply, for a total of 150 W to the card.
  • PCI Express 225 W/300 W High Power Card Electromechanical Specification—Published in March 2008, this standard defines an eight-pin (2x4) auxiliary power connector capable of supplying an additional 150 W of power, for a total of either 225 watts (75+150) or 300 watts (75+150+75) of available power.
 Related is that fact that PSU spec, now deletes the 20amp rule on 12vdc rails and now rails are up to 138 amps, 1600watts.  (they pulled that rabbit out  of a hat, and tell you the wires are now VW1, fire proof and safe to catch fire)
My guess is my new DSP PSU has OCP set a tad over 46amps (12vdcRail1) sorry not testing that today. (not me)
The GPU Makers are lazy dogs, if they spec'd out the card for all 3 rails, things could be easy.
If your card has 2 Aux jacks do not use a "Y" splitter,  buy a PSU with 2 Aux cables.

Heat problems:  (go water cooled? see next frame below)
  • Heat problems?,  the best GPU card sends all hot air outside the case, using a vented GPU "J"-bracket to do that. (hint: not dumping its heat to the  inside of the case)
  • If the room the PC is in (or closet) is at 95F temp or higher you will fail.
  • If the case fans can not keep the inside of the PC cool this too will fail. (some GPU belch heat to the inside of  case others far better do that only to the rear of PC NOT inside.)
  • No better way to keep a PC cool is water cooling or a very large fan (larger are more quiet) on the front grill of PC, (hint, buy cases that allow that)  This also keeps the 25watt south bridge chip cool too.
  • PC filthy?




Water cooling , Agua.   Remember to call a plumber if these things leak, ($600/hr Union labor , LOL)
(Physics) Water conducts heat 22 times greater than air (at sea level)
The best way to go water is with an external water radiator seen below and is 100% silent and no fans. Sold for about $100 the money you spend here, saves a bundle not needing to buy a new PC case.
These great cooling tower RADs,  move the heat 100% (of captured) out of the confines of the PC case , a best of the best idea. For extreme gaming or like usage.
Imported Air Convection cooled Radiators (I'd say nothing beats this RAD)

The other way cool things, is to find room inside the PC for this RAD (copper shown)  (looks just like car Radiator below but smaller, for  leprechauns cars?.)  
Most times a new PC case is needed, and with space for this beast and pump and hoses. (read more expensive that)
The rules of Physics means that a larger Radiator, needs no fan or one that is only one large slow turning (RPM) fan (read quiet.  (experiement all you want here learn what your PC needs)
This RAD needs a fan, in most cases (no pun)

The fact is the bigger RAD can have a thermal fan switch that does not turn on  the fan on until near 80C? and that means silence until it is really needed.
A black RAD works better. But Copper is 2 time better than Aluminum (I have no spec on black anodized aluminum which is best for Alum, my guess is a toss up?)


 The hard way to do this is seen here in the vast numbers of water cooling kits.  (even cheaper if it fits your case)
(hint#1 always build your  own PC and buy water cooled case with space way up  top for the RAD and grill up top)
$500 Kit #1 ( EKWB)  (overprices in my book)
Make sure you buy and use a  fan controller (smart)


Or the imported $100 kit  Just one Radiator is as cheap as $20.
One nice feature to add  is a water thermometer kit.(with display) (some use a tank in the DVD bay (gone DVD) and has water temp gauge there)


Next if the GPU runs too hot is the water block kit. ( how this is done depends on your brand and model GPU card, and what it allows and what fits correctly) Best HS grease is SHIN Etsu.


One more for fun,  Note the flow meter (yellow impeller)

Good luck cooling your fast PC. (some need this bad, with 250+watt GPU and 140watt CPU .
The worst case for any GPU ever is 365watts (old) that must be expelled from just 1 GPU.



TOP PITFALLS fast short list: (give PC runs ok on old video card or base onboard iGPU (intel) BIOS screens dead is the only key symptoms...
  • Old cards do no work in new PCs with UEFI CLASS 3 BIOS,  and all PCs (turn key OEM) 2020. (Asus, you can buy what you want , unlike DELL or HP)
  • Wrong PSU, forgot you need 500watt (min)PSU to run this card. Or you PSU is 10 years old and the CAP's inside are  leaked out or dry and now dead (or weaker now)(good/bad, shorted or weak)!!!
  • The  1 or 2 AUX jacks on the new card are not connected to the PSU, you forgot to do that, oops. An ATI R9-380 needs 200watts just for itself.  (if you see 2 jacks AUX,both must be connected)
  • The BIOS settings not changed from iGPU to PCI-e/GPU .
  • The monitors video cable not connected to the right GPU jack. ( GPU card, VGA> DVI , > HDMI, DP , in that order if present some or all)
  • The the monitor decided to fail today, dangme. take a rope and hang  me.... (dang 10 year old CCFL black lamp tubes died or work only on odd Wednesdays)
  • The PC needs a hard reset.
  • The main motherboard, RTC Coin cell battery decided to fail today (5+ years old easy) Replace it  any time BIOS acts odd in ANY WAY at ALL. Or BIOS can not old dates. (MM/DD/YY)
  • You forgot step 1,  remove old card video driver in DEVICE MANAGER? before the swap?

version 6;  5-1-2019 ,  redux 1: