PS3 "SLIM"  cures and upgrades for Hardware and Software.  (2009 example Hardware Slim CECH2001a, USA)

There are endless web pages now on the PS3 (and all versions)  I will do only PS3 Slim below. (other models fail in similar ways for worse fail for BGA )
I will only do the most common causes and cures and my refurbishment steps (Youtube has endless videos on all topics here one can imagine for sure all forms of dismantlement)
The only bad thing about this PS3  is that it has zero diagnostics onboard and safe-mode is not that., nor any DIAG APP at PSN at all. ( Sony wants you to throw it away when it breaks out of warranty at $500 a pop !)
All things on mine, work perfectly even the www browser .  ( my backup  PS3 has 1 bad ODD cable , WIP)
In truth only 5 things can fail here (discounting case,screws,cables,or coin cell battery) The Mobo, HDD, Blu-Ray Drive (ODD), PSU. ( a top fail is the ODD For ODD problems jump here.)
My Sony real controller is a real (DUALshock-3 by Sony) not some cloned junk but  this blue one cloned is  great.(top grade clones do work !)
I upgraded mine to SSD 128GB, easy. 1TB is easy too.(how?, see here)
The #1 cause of most problems is overheating (just like PCs and expected)   but mostly only FAT boys to avoid.
This PS3 burns 250watts of power as heat for sure gaming in fast 3D. It must  self cool or fails hard. (fan blows and vents clean!) Do not run this PS3 on a blanket or vents blocked in any way.
If you hear the fan run super fast that means turn it off and let it cool or better stop all gaming and let the fan cool the chips down and then find out why it overheats. (clean it first per below)
MFG: July 2009 (wiki photo)

Day one steps to make any PS3 fly and be happy. CECH-20xxA (xx=01 for USA region code)
 HDMI port checked as  good and used by me only this. (avoid any used PS3 with a broken HDMI port)  (see Dismantle here)
Besides normal tools ( Phillips, ISO 8764-1screwdrivers ) you need this T8 TORX(tm) screws. (HOLLOW TIP) The T8 is Sony's way to keep kids out of 350volts on the PSU, lethal that. 176v USA not safe for kids inside and this is a kids toy.
  1. Cleaning day, I open the case and blow out every particle off lint and dust inside and for sure all vents. (do not skip any vents, fan or the RADIATOR) Endless Youtube videos cover all this and all kinds of disassembly.
  2. Make sure the top ODD (optical disk drive) metal top is not dented, if is cure that now, remove dents. (I even dust out the ODD inside and make sure nothing broken inside plastics and no extra CD's there.
  3. Replace the RTC coin cell battery. 3.3vdc (new voltage), mine was falling fast at 2.9v and that is bad. (sold at walmart CR2032) (remove ODD) , see coin, I do this with power on so time clock is not lost)
  4. I backup my data, seen in system settings.(XMB desktop)  (after all PSN games are bought and loaded)  took me 1 hour this...(normal)
  5. I then remove the HDD, and put in SSD (done not just for 2x speed but for longer life of drive and way less heat ) Replacing it is super easy 5 screws only ,but  the power button tricks are covered in wiki (called  secrets)
  6. The SSD is new (even 1TB) or used and for sure erased, not formatted in any way. (my drive cost me a whopping $20)
  7. Next make a USB thumb drive, with the your new Firmware, 4.87 , on fresh FAT32 Thumb formatted,  "PS3" folder and inside PS3 folder an "UPDATE" folder in CAPS! and this file. PS3UPDAT.PUP
  8. Then do the long power button push and 2 beep rule,  and reload the OS. (I am internet connected via Ethernet at all times) See a far far better  video here. ( see at press PS button){press start and select buttons together !}
  9. The Firmware load needs the Controller USB wired to work at step 8.  (due to a lack of OS now ) The magic super secret keys are in the wiki. (also PS3 supports real a USB PC keyboards)
  10. The last steps are to reverse step 4, but then pick recovery. (Settings -> System Settings -> Backup Utility ->  , recover)  And re-log in to Sony PSN, web site (Sony Playstation STORE)
Data transfer rule:
As of firmware 3.15, you can transfer data between two consoles using the PS3 Data Transfer utility. You can read more about it in the relevant section of the manual.


Hardware that fails. (issues and FAQ)  Some Music disk will not play if copy protected, thus my using CCDA first)
The ODD must load and eject any disk or the drive is bad or needs service.
Mine had this damage and this redneck fix until my new ribbons FFC come from China direct for $1 (24pin 0.5mm pitch)
ODD tests best are here: Do the tests first, in the proper order: No scratched up disks allowed for testing.
  • Loads and ejects any disk even some old XP disk installer works or any old CD,  for a load test. If fails, the ODD needs work or the ribbon FFC ribbon flex cable  is bad.
  • Loads ok, so I test one CDDA real Music disk as seen on Walmarts music rack, even  a old Madonna CD nobody wants for free. But must play. (It can play MP3, MP4-ACC, WAV-linear PCM,& WMA music files, too)
  • Loads and plays  DVD movie, of any kind.
  • Loads and plays a Blu-Ray BD movie, as sold in stores, not illegal disks of any kind. here. I use title  "5th Element "disk.(first Blue ray ever, and less strict DRM )
  • Loads and plays any  PS3 game.
If only Blu-Ray fails try a new laser rail  assembly ( read the sticker on it first) mine is KEM-450AAA. $16 cost new.
In all cases if the disk BD loads ok, but not play:
Clean the drive, ODD of all dirt and lent and hair, and the 2 LENSES with IPA+Q-tip gently (optics cleaned) and the rails are free inside and head moves easy, not packed in filth. (leave the springs alone)
No ribbon cables fell off or lose or clamps not set to locked, or ribbon end pins not wrecked. (look carefully use  even grandpa's magnifying lense.)
The ODD has over 9 models (no mixing models allowed) and to buy a whole ODD or just the rail/head/deck  you must read this tag first.
The PS3 will run HDD games DL off of PSN even if ODD is dead, but the OOD BDM-0nn card must not be missing. (leave the dead drive in place to use PSN games)
Never grease the laser head side rails ever, but that long brass (gold like color) lead screw drive is super lightly greased with common lithium grease. (I clean off the old grease with paint thinner and put on fresh with a fine line brush)
Keep in mind there are  3  motors inside to fail. (load , rail stepper and hub motor) The logic  is smart enough to know one is dead and aborts play, or aborts a load or even cause a loop that clicks like mad, focus fails, if laser is bad.
If any motor fails,   the logic detects that and takes the ODD off line, or even refuses to load a disk. BD. (same is true any detection switches to left of load motor, dead or stuck)  see more on ODD here.
Best of all is having a spare, Laser rail to test. (a whopping $13-16 investment) The drive whole is like $40 new.
Jump to ODD chapter 2 here:

Next up: HDD:
HDD bad, if it fails smart tests, it is bad. (no OS (or XMB) on earth runs on any bad hdd ever!) Learn the  skill of testing any HDD using a S.M.A.R.T testing app, takes 15seconds to see results.
As I understand it the OS must be jailbroken to run app that tests the HDD proper. (the one big PS3 pain is this)

The HDD is super slow. (and Toshiba made) and is 50MB/s slug slow.  and 10x worse random accessed dead slug.  I run SSD here, up to 1TB works.
The HDD is a normal drive that can be erased and re-purposed to any SATA using PC or any other toys that can use HDD, like DVR/NVR,PC,cctv systems, high end Camcorders, and more.
The HDD is setup by Sony with their secret format and encryption schemes read  this FAQ , very accurate. (based off freeBSD)
The SSD is 2 to 3 times faster , even with old SATA3 speeds,  SSD can do 300mB easy on SATA3 ports,  that is up to 6-10 times faster.  The costs are not high now for any SSD. (fast and less heat and way longer life) (why have HDD)?
HDD RIP here.

That Fan HEAT SINK issues:
First off this PS3 never needs CPU/GPU deCaping ever. (as seen on FAT PS3 trash) called the heat spreader.  (inside the CPU package this)
RSX/CELL huge chips need to have good thermal interface material , Grease is the tech jargon.  (I only use grease tested by independent labs , not from the basements of Acrtic dot com)
If you find TIM failures(hot chips) see my SHIN ETSU  G751 cure. (here)  (heat sink grease or heat sink paste)  .001" thin applied is best  (It is not window Caulk) not put on like this kid did.
Did you know Intel CPUs use Shin Etsu G751 inside there case spreader.? they do and it does not go bad.  ShinEstu means CITY FEVER. (that is funny , as it cures the Fever)
Never buy any FAT BOY PS3.
Same answer too for the Capacitor Plague then.   (double doomed) so...
Last or even first for some,  old PC or PS3 is the Capacitor.  plague. is real, 1999-2007, FAT BOY years,  but not my 2009, nor newer,.  They leak acid or dry out or bulge or crack. First PS3 is year 2006, not good that.

The one HDD Phillips head blue screw, is metric sized M3 x 10mm long, I have like over 20 sizes of Phillips head drivers  ,   or you will strip the head out. (if you do , that use needle nose pliers to remove it CCW)
USA Phillips screw driver never fits  JIS screws (Japan metric) are totally unlike any USA screw. (and JIS does not cam out)
Current metric   spec,  is 
Phillips, ISO 8764-1(2) , 2008 and newer. 1999 here; 
The only way to get this right today is hand fit the screw to a real metric screw driver,  the truth is here.
The correct PH#00 or #0  , my blue screw PH# tip is  2mm diameter fits best.   and the T8 hollow point TORX is needed too. Bottom front screws, (learn to RTM?)
The 4 steel screws M3  on the real HDD side cage can be too tight, do not use the wrong  Phillips Driver here, and push in hard, after 10 years the aluminum threads against the steel screw do "electrolysis and jam a bit"do not mangle the screws head.
 New screw drivers  after year 2008 fit way better due to
ISO 8764-1,(2) PH spec. or older JIS screw driver, as USA drivers old never fit JIS screws. (JIS is from JAPAN)
The SSD is a plastic  case M3 on many, and those remove easy. (it is dissimilar metals that fail so easy + humid caused corrosion)


Key points to know related: (PS3 slim)2009.
  • The HDD is a non standard format and is a SONY Secret format , and is encrypted. (the OS loaded is XMB a fork of FreeBSD)  The maker SONY banned  Linux on this box.("OtherOS", is gone)
  • No PC OS (Windows/Linux or BSD, can read that HDD drive, (that means the top 10 Cloning apps fail, even EaseUS and AEOMI lies about this fact.) even Clonezilla fails.
  • You can not simply move the HDD to your PC and backup the data there say in an image file.(not withstanding JAIL BREAKING)
  • SONY did that not by accident, hint hint.  " using IED decryption as seen here (hacked) eid_root_key "
  • I do not ever use hacked or custom Firmware. (why brick a good PS3: or get PSN banned?) not me, not ever. (if Sony PSN kills PS3 web site dead, I will erase this line)
  • Sony just told the world (end of 2020)  that some PS3 support ends,"confusing weird announcements" but just now May,2021 I bought a games there no problems at all.
  • Overheating is  top PS3 failure cause, not at all like FAT BOY,  so clean the PS3 vents ,fan and radiator. (or the PS3 will have a short life)
  • Hold POWER  button down for two beeps (while PS3 is off): Enter PS3 diagnostic mode (repeat procedure twice) see link marked secret above step 9 magic super secret keys
  • The  secret PS3 error codes (I use that  word secret , tongue in cheek.)
  • Sony has no HDD classic S.M.A.R.T test (or must Jailbreak-it), yes I can run HDD tests on  any PC, to run DiskCheckup!.  Here is mine now on a PC via USB to SATA , passing all smart tests.
  • The SSD trim , canard was a worry 10 years ago, is not now! , all drives self trim. (inside the S.M.A.R.T brain inside the drive) TRUST IT.  (and Sony did ship some PS4 with SSD in year 2013) we know 1TB SSD works.
  • SanDisk Extreme long ago 2015 and NOW, runs no trim needed "BY DESIGN", all mine this old are error free 6 years later.
  • Last the PS3 SATA-2  rumors of  too slow for SSD, is BULL! 300 MB/s (bus rate) any SSD can do that but not any cheap  2.5" slug, laptop HDD.  ours is, Read 48.8MB/s (MK-1655gsx) slug. (and head steps are super slow)
  • No this PS3 can not run at 500MB/s rates that some SSD can do now. (but who cares? , 300 is plenty and is 300 div-by 50 = 6 times faster, but the HDD steps the head and  the new SSD has no head and screams even faster.
SSD are used in vast things now, even super simple things lacking any real OS, like NVR, DVR, CCTV systems, CAMCORDERS, and well and endless list of things and no problems at all now, 2021. 
SSD is Less heat, a longer life span,  faster by x3-x6 than any HDD made, for sure cheap laptop 2.5" drives in ours. Less heat for the poor fan to deal with... yes ! And is More GREEN and less CARBON emissions .
Buy a new modern SSD and move on.



The MoBo or Motherboard or main board.  (next up) This is just show and tell time...
Both Chips CELL and RSX(GPU) both need a top quality heat sink grease.  (never attempt to run this motherboard lacking the main heat sink.)  A new coin cell is best. (now)
Below is DYN-001 ( there are many mobo , this is only 1, of the slim versions) S/N:
1-880-055-xx --- CECH-20xxA/B  (A and B are codes for HDD size) xx =01 = USA, 09/2009 first one made. (mine is July 2009)
Some times the square flat thin black caps on the bottom fail as seen here. , and some MoBo  need  these  NEC/Tokin capacitor replaced.


Click image to see bottom !

DYN-001 model !  The first thing to think here is not let those 2 large chips overheat and no  bad caps. (those caps here are super good quality and not subject to the rule of "Plague" like FAT BOY.)

PSU, Power Supply Unit,  (top fails) Again mostly a FAT BOY problem, not later.


 I check all caps for leaking green boric ACID, cracks or bulging. 120vac is on left side. DC right. This is a SMPS supply classical. ( I ESR test all caps that I do not trust) or see huge noise on my scope.


  click here to see vast more. this is mostly a FAT boy probem ,from the CAP Plegue era.

My SLIM  PSU,   looks like this, 120vac is on left side. DC right. This is a SMPS supply classic.  Not known to fail for caps yet. (cover off)
See 2 POT's here variable resistors that some folks play with.(hackers)



Yes, the Blu-Ray ODD is problematic to the extreme.
The ODD
can be  just cleaned properly inside and now it works again,  (This is a CD/DVD/Blu-RAY(BD) optical disk drive) It reads disks only. It can not burn any kinds of disks.
The ODD may start working again if you reload the firmware from scratch or upgrade it. ( try  SAFE-Mode menu 3 and 4 actions)
No greater pain exists in the PS3 than this complex pesky device (  Vast things made now are moving fully away from optical disk of any kind)   See my list of tests below.
The PAIN of  DRM (digial rights management) that SONY put inside the logic.(firmware,etc) Sony is like this super  powerful MOVIE /MUSIC/TV Company vaccum cleaner, look and see.
Knowing that one simple fact we now know why they take DRM so serious and worst of all the tricky and  silly ODD to MOBO marrage rules, OUCH !)
There are folks that made Jigs, Dongles "PS3Jig"  and PSP hacks to allow users, to marrage the damn ODD. ( and most smart users not wanting to Jailbreak their PS3)
The trick is gaining FSM , factory service mode. ( easy to near impossible as each newer FW  above v3.55  blocks that ! FSM to users) (<< if you can not read this , the PS3 is now bricked)
The Cure os easy we simply  move the original BDM CARD TO THE NEW ODD DRIVE.  (just pray the BDM card never burns out)  The marriage may also use the BDM cards internal serial code as part of the marrage, oops. double tricky.
One more pain is some Blu-ray movies will not play on this PS3. (DRM blocked) and Sony can care less, I am told.
Do not under estimate the pain of Jailbreaking the PS3, and then accidently using PSN  for any reasons and now $1000 in online games are now DEAD.  (contract violations are serious) < never steal games !
See my ODD tests here.

First are inspections:

The ODD can fail easy, even for loss cables or dirt inside or someone loaded 2 or more disks at once.

The Optical DISK DRIVE  or "ODD" chapter 2:
 Do not think for one moment this is a SATA (4pins signal)  drive of any kind ! It has a 24pin communications cable 12 pins are signals. (" secret and NON STANDARD")
You can even test the PS3  with a dead drive ODD, but not missing drive, and load any Demo game off PSN network STORE  and test the PS3 that way first (for overheating or a  bad PSU)
Get games only from PSN.   and those load to the HDD.  <<< until you repair ODD.
Mr;. ODD below,  . Clean the 2 lens here with IPA and  a Q-tip, clean the 2 rails seen on each side of the head assembly , make sure the head moves on the rail freely.
Grease nothing , but GR lead screw shaft seen  below, to the right see a real tag, never buy any parts unless your find and read your tag first,
This is only 1 model ODD of 8+ made?.  Look first, buy second. (as in look before leap)
It turns out my Spare PS3, the  main FFC 24pin 12.5mm 0.5mm pitch wide ribbon cable was abused and damaged. 
The new (Flexiable Flat Cable) = FFC cable is $1 cost new from china direct or , 3rd party makers/scalpers, or $10 to $25 used.
Never skip checking FFC cable ends from pin damage.   It be a shame to spend huge cash with only a bad $1 cable. (have a spare cable is best, they take a beating doing advance ODD testing) (in,out,in,repeat)
Below is just the laser carrier assembly: (rubber mount removed) PS3 Slim only ! 2001A


This next photo, mine is clear and shows lots of details.  PS3 Slim.  (and load + eject motor)

ODD cables is next topic. (what to do and what not to do)
FFC
types, flex flat cables there are 3 legacy types, (vastly more now in the PC world) 
The PS3 uses 3 types,  just push on pull off type 1, no magic there, and the ZIF hinge locking type 2 and 3,  (ZIF = zero insertion force)  Do not confuse the 3 types or bad happens.
This  below is a ZIF type 2 hinged,  and must be unlocked to release the cable or damage will happen.
The PS3 uses 2 kinds (types) of locking ZiF sockets,  The below hinge lock used  at laser head to  daughter board. (and this)

HINGED ZIF: Used at laser head 


After doing the lock action #4 we test it gently pulling the FFC cable, to be sure it is secure, if not?, do it again.  (on  real PC's  there are many kinds of ZIF used) We ony have 2 here.
The best locks used and seen in the PS3, are wedge locks, seen inside ODD data PCB card here,   not used hear but very tricky are  tab locks. (tiny video)

Some  simple FFC socket Jacks are just push pull , on/off with gentle action (as seen inside ODD  and at the front power panel jack)

I should not have to say, to inspect each cable end in the ODD for damage?  ( even on intermittent drives, not only dead)  and that the locking ZIF socket needs to be locked.
ZIF rule #1 is make sure not to force it into any locked jack!
Ugly and damage has no limits in the world of connectors.   Bad on the left new on the right. (the sissors cut is a hack , good luck there...) 
I tired buying 7 cables from 3 different countries, below right and most are too thin (<0.015":) and the jacks do not lock up. Rendering the ODD dead as a mackerel. 
 (I Bought lots of these cables from many suppliers world wide and only the thick ones DO WORK) { if the jack lock fails to hold the cable secure it can not ever work correctly|}   I found cables sold for 5 for $5 total.


See Mine fail  just below?
(replaced fast)  Camera: Canon T5i ,  basically a train wreck.
Not easy to buy now in side USA, avoiding endless scaplers in USA.
Caused by Jamming it in with FFC locked wrecks the cable end copper contacts. (hard proof here)
(Flexiable flat cable) = FFC (real below for PS3)  from MoBo rear jack to O.D.D left side jack. (warning the O.D.D jack is wedge own locked jack on the mobo end is a hinge jack.
One more hinge jack is at the actual laser head  the most wide FFC and tricky to attach; (more later on that topic)

Some cheaper cables do not have the reversal seen below so that will take some DIY skills to fold the cable oddly to get the blue tabs to face outboard.
The Below cable is REAL SONY made and fits perfectly but is super insane rare now, and most are not new at all, like the below one.
Most of these ebay/amazon  FFC cables sold above are too thin to work at all, and are less than 0.015" thick.  Note below , the end to end pin reversal !! Blue up >>> Blue Down.

Below is the wedge lock ZIF: This is  very different type of wedge lock and operates at the brown lever  up and down. Photo is rear of O.D.D. All O.D.D 12 signals pass via this one cable.

end cables.

ODD logic board or Daughter board that is married to the system.


This PCB on mine is BDM-061 version, and I must move it to the new ODD every time I replace the laser or the whole drive.  Note the push down to lock on the right , wedge locking FFC jack.
The pins active on the Wedge lock are to the left side here, so the blue cable end tab goes outboard on the FFC cable. (blue out ,pins in)
I think too that if you buy the same exact card used or new, it will not work in you PS3. (yah that tricky)  Just move yours and be happy !
Also when buying used PS3, do so with the bottom seal (warranty) not missing and not showing words VOID. (so you know the board below is authentic and ready to ROCK)
The 24 pins (right side below)  use 12 pins just for signals. (is NOT SATA)" as in a SONY SECRET"
The jack in the top center here is the laser head cable, and is hinged type.
The best way to connect this upper ZIF hinge jack is always with the laser head moved to the rear first, then the board sitting up like below and attach it.(first) all others last.

A.K.A: ODD Daughter board. Just move the orginal BMD card to the newe ODD. (is the simple cure)

The front eject button has a  long push hard eject mode too, when held for 10 seconds.
Ribbon cables not put in backward nor upside down or only 1/2 inserted or the 2 locking jacks, not locked, on the FCC 24 pin cable.
The laser assembly is easy to replace. (the whole thing has 4 shock mounted screws that just unscrew.

Captain Obvious:  Clean the drive fully inside, dust it out and the 2 lenses, and not having some disk or say 3 disks stuck inside or worst parts missing or cables fell off.

Testing the O.D.D, this is how I do that... In this order. (all FFC cables good and not missing  and are secured)
I start with a super simple  CDDA music disk , store bought music for all first tests)
CDDA means, Compact disk Digital Audio. ( as seen on the Walmart Music rack , from 1984 to now) It has no computer file stuctures at all. (it uses the Red Book standard)
The below tests are done after all cables to the ODD are good and seated and the 3 locking jacks are in fact locked.
  • Remove both metal lids off the ODD, keeping all FFC cables connected, I have a spare long FFC cable, not factory folded 24pin, just for testing.
  • I can set the ODD drive down , on the thin side edge and load a test disk and see how it works step by step and how it fails ( you can watch the whole process)
  • The small round magnetic disk hub holder must be in place on the hub or the ODD disk will chatter. (and that makes focus fail)
  • See if load motor works at all.? (if not? cables bad or the switches bad on its PCB bad, or damaged main frame parts or dead load motor, in this case buy  a new main base chassis)
  • The disk loads, and the gear drive closes the laser cage and the laser head must now move after the next step , spin up.
  • See if disk motor spins up? (if not the motor may be bad) if yes, focus is the next step.
  • See if focus works.(or goes into a  focus loop  gone wild) (clicks like mad?)
  • See if both lasers work or just 1.(glows) ( one Laser  glows then 2nd glows) (from cd/dvd  laser side then last to BD blue laser side)  if say a CDDA is loaded only the non blu-ray laser goes active.
  • See if CCDA/DVD and Blu-Ray all fail or just one, does just BD.  Even my CD-R , disk with  some MP3 music plays in the ODD   (in settings turn on MP3 Codec yes) (best is 1 mp3 on one CD for faster access)
  • My ODD plays vast things, but not all Blu-Ray movies play, a well known fact "Sony-Shamed", so we keep store and  play only known to work BR movies, like this.. "The 5th Element  BD " works!
  • My PS3 plays all DVD movies too and even home made.  (BD is far far more strict)
  • Last is Blue-Ray game testing disk the most hard to get working .  Try at least 3 Games to be sure all is good. and play for 15 minutes. (my test disks are scratch free)
  • Keep in mind if any step  fails the Disk my eject or not load at all or even get in this focus laser loop. (and clicks like mad) (all disks have a media ID and if the drive is not able to read it first, the focus goes nuts and loud.)
The brains of  the ODD, (logic hard and firmware) it  must read the disk Media ID first or it can not know what to do next. (vast media exists, and  many do not work at all here, but CDs work the most easy)
The ID (identification code) technology is inherited from the ATIP code used on CD-R discs.
The PS3 will first try very hard to read the media ID, and based off that one fact make logical decisions,  like CCDA media or CD-R  with photos or mp3, or DVD of any kind, photos, music or a movie, even MP4( with strict limits).
MP4 at -  Video in H.264/AVC HP (High Profile) and audio in AAC LC(Low Complexity) format only.. The below facts helps you make your own test MP4 video to test the PS3.
  • Video Codec: MPEG-4 AVC H.264 /Xvid/DivX
  • Audio codec: AAC
  • AVC Profile: Baseline, Main or High Profiles
  • Maximum Bitrate: None specified. However, if Bitrate is above 20Mbps, stuttering will occur when playback
  • AVC Level: 4.2
  • No B-Pyramid and P4x4 support
  • 4GB limit for streaming H.264 files
  • and if the MP4 came off the internet and has DRM restrictions it will fail.

The ID shows BD-ROM then it looks for a movie structures if not found it then looks for legit, PS3 game structures and loads that as needed. (and is decrypted !)
The Advanced Access Content System (AACS) is a standard for content distribution and digital rights management
ROM Mark is a small amount of cryptographic data that is stored separately from normal Blu-ray Disc data, aiming to prevent replication of the discs.
The cryptographic data is needed to decrypt the copyrighted disc content protected by AACS (lacking this "MARK" key , no other BD drive can read these files ever.
In 2010 Sony added 3D gaming firmware update.
That is all I can gleen here.
I mention these fine details only in the context of knowing what the BD  laser does, reading the ID then the mark. (head focus can fail  as can the ID and the MARK) and lots more. (thus my progressive way of testing)

One great test disk (1st) is one CD-r burned with any MP3 music file one or more. (if this fails the drive is bad or cables to it bad or just loose or simply not locked !)
The MP3  CD-R disk does not need folders at all. (best first test  is CDDA  )
end.ODD chapter 2, topic.


THE RAD is next: "Thermal Radiator" It has only one job and that is to get the 250watts of waste heat out of the BOX and in to your living ROOM (space).

COOLING FACTS and cleaning:
This below  is a Radiator
just like a car has,  and must be kept clean, no lint, dust  or hair. (or dirt) The copper pipe has coolant liquid inside. So called Heat pipes.
No dead fans, no fan packed in lint. (fan pulled it out I  cleaned  these RAD Fins) 100% clean, even done 1 time per year., and all vents in the PS3 every one vacuumed or blow clean !!
The fan must never have broken or missing blades (one more captain obvious ?)
That means too the PSU is shop air blown clean too as it is major heat exit point too.
Learn the dirt attracts more dirt. (lint same) clean it full is best for sure.  Fins too seen below!.
Fan pulled look here: "clean it" I use shop air 30-PSI ! max. or Walmart Can-o-Air sold in the , bingo ! location: camera/computer section deep rear of store .


Next up is : BGA failures from H3LL: (Ball grid Array , factory caused solder failures)

 (a.k.a.  Solderball failures from 2007)  (avoid that year made !, Avoid FAT boy (Phat) year PS3.

The thermal drawing simple shows how heat travels and how it  can fail.
The drawing below does not show the under heat spreaded compounds that can fail too.
In thermal dynamics the thermal resistance is shown as a common resistor.
The goal is to get the 100watts from the 2 processors (CELL+RSX) to expel all that heat to the heat sink, then the fan does the rest.
The problems below are just TIM-1 in red coded failing and the other is the TIM2 compound used  below the heat spreader that loves to fail on FAT boy, but not slim girl.
The word junction means the propessor chips DIE top.(above that is spreader TIM2 and then the users TIM1 on top of the Spreader. (TIM2 not shown below, but is there for sure)
The whole purpose here is to get the 100watts from the die and all 100watts to the AIR, flowing in the case and out the cases vents. (rear) , the only failure on SLIM is the TOP TIM1 is bad. (the TIM2 inside does not fail on SLIM)
I use ShinEtsu grease in mine from Japan.
Tj is junction, and  Ta right is the room air flowing in case (cold)  There should never be a case of the slim needing DeCAPPING ,like the FAT boy does. TIM2 is inside the case not  outside like TIM1.





Learn not to buy the wrong year PC's and or PS3. (or TV's) using my avoid years list below and why. (why makes it easy to understand)

I will
not cover fully any  cures for the problems seen with SOLDER Ball Grid Array chips (BGA) from HELL year 2007 even January.  < avoid that year and win.!
The cause was really a too fast (haste makes waste) and too late to compliance to the Government ROHS new Lead free laws of 2002. (5 years warning they gave and most did so too late ,or just in time to fail)
Key years bad  to know are by Country (to avoid first RoHS electronics of any kind with BGA)
The YEAR MADE, is what MATTERS MOST: (see bottom sticker off PS3 for date, it is there to see)
Enforced in Japan 2001., and 2008 in Korea.
EU
market after July 1, 2006 must pass RoHS compliance.
USA:
California RoHS regulations took effect January 1, 2007. (this State sets the GOAL  here in USA, no maker ever wants to make 50 different USA PCs or PS3 for each state of laws, Calif. is the hard nut and the goal)
HP, Dell, And APPLE  and Sony PS3 FAT only, had massive BGA failures on JAN 2007 forward until soon cured. (and recalls by most makers)    SONY FAT failed this day too or just before. PS3 began in 2006.
See the one more topic here called the  Capacitor Plague 2007, and years to avoid. As you can see year 2007 here in USA is suck year. (vast persons were vary angry for sure $3000 laptops useless.)

MODEL EVOLUTION:

The Wiki list shows model revisions are not simple at all.... this is needed to buy the correct parts .  My most favorite table is this...


Evolution by years. Just slim and newer, FAT Boys are junk. (IMO)



Anything
I say on my page or others pages www, can be wrong as SONY does upgrade the Soft/Firm-ware vast times even at our release DEC.2020.
Please do upgrade, to cure bugs, never forget to do that.
It is true some cloned parts or controllers do work great now 2021.
Do not Jailbreak any PS3 until you read all the CONs first,  "like no more online MP gaming"

I can not think of any game box with so many games sold in the wild now, even  for $3 to $6 used, the word is VAST, endless, nothing else like it. 
The manual is free:
  manual.

Marketing lies: &a clones... 
USED (is truth) (a.k.a second hand) (post consumed?) (and HAND-Me-Downs)? is this a problem or an issue?
"Pre_owned", marketing liars, (they started this silly name back long ago and  spoken by car Salesmen 1961, )  All things by man are owned, there is no pre-owned ever! (of Man MADE MACHINES)
Are buyers so supid that they think Pre_owned is not USED? (a rhetorical question and is NO !) (we all know  BS when we hear it.) bovine Squat.
USED IS USED, Pre_oned is  lie, all things made by man are own by you, the distibutor or seller or maker or the contractor (Toshiba HDD) or every damn thing in the BOM , SONY bill of materials and parts list.
Only raw IRON may not be owned,  yet. Gods IRON.  Deity, Ghia, mother earth ? << just one example of  118 things on the element chart may be owned or not. (if you are  Commie , nothing is owned)<< what is owned?
There are no PRE_owned machines, it is an  OXYMORON.
Worst yet are used bootleg knockoff's (eeks) or 10x worse clones of clones. (ouch)

Not pointing fingers, just the facts: (if the shoe fits wear it?)
They steal the Name "Sony®", and are too daft or evil to use their real names like Hong Dong Fat or the like. ( or pay for a real sports player name, yah think?) we call these NO- NAME brands, (a bloody secret)
Dualshock® 3; Controllers are cloned now on a massive scale.  (150 million users that Sony abandoned sure thing) <<< Sony knows how guilty they are... here... (causing the huge vacuum) IMO .
Also Known as DS3.(for short)
CLUES to FAKE (not Sony real):
Of Counterfeit -Cloned or knock-offs /bootleg,  a list of proofs of FAKE. ( a bulleted simple list)   The top complaint would be the buttons or analog joy sticks  suck or fail to click or are sluggish) "bad actions !"

  • Looks wrong or controls feel wrong  ,bingo for fake. (stiff buttons?)
  • Fake 12 digit serial number and 13 is correct. (or fact country code on tag and does not match USA boxed market)
  • PS button is marked "P3", not the real Sony's logo, or marked as  target ICON or like a odd logo. is  fake.
  • PCB (printed circuit board) inside is just all  green no silk screen is a fake clone.  The 4 original Sony boards look like this.
  • All safety UL ,RU and CE  lables and FCC Blue-tooth lables all are fake or missing, inside or outside or both. (and the traced out codes show, if at all, can not be traced to the safety authority, FCC tops my list USA)
  • Dualshock marked and has no motors inside . (now that is shocking ,yes)  (many folks find the shacking boring or distracting, in 1 hour use)
  • SIXAXIS , missing in DS3. (used in some road race games)  Many users flat hate it (but most of that are bad game software and not the controller.)
  • The bottom of the controller has no bottom TAG at all is FAKE , see mine here.
  • Fake TAG model numbers like CECHZ2H (H=HongKong faked) < used effectively to fool Customs inspections, I am told.
  • Find missing FCC ID or fake ID, see my real Sony. FCC ID: AK8CECHZC2   (FCC is USA Radio Emission laws, FCC.Gov for blue tooth)
  • The battery inside with naked blue plastic wrap is a clone, but no RU mark ,or with no CE tracking codes is FAKE testing lies,,, lacking that... or the battery love to blows up? over charged.
  • Battery bracket below  missing are clones, all 4 Sony PCB had them.  (the brackets keep the battery from going lose landing on shake motors and BOOM a nice FIRE and in your hands and face !!!
  • Battery charger failure on clones, fail 3 ways, the LED do not blink charging, nor stop blinking when charge is  complete, or never ends the charge that wrecks good batteries..
  • The Sony® trade marked "X,O,Triangle and Square", do not look correct (Sony is trade marked) that is a FAKE controller.
  • 4 LED on the rear missing or not explosed , is fake.
  • Fails the  Sony new battery run test , can do: 30 hours of continuous gaming after  a full battery charge;   see my charger test below.
  • It is true some modern 2021 clones now are very good  !, like my nice blue one below.
Most folks? dislike Sixaxis features (for sure forced to use)   (but  might like it on Road Racers or Formula One-Champ.edtn), and the shaking motors get old and annoying fast. (folks over 13 year old)
INSIDES MATTER (GUTS matter)
I am not at all against clones, this page it to show what to look for and avoid, most $6 controllers are pure crap.

If  the PCB lacks lacking a real Silk screened ID marks of parts? 
(a green board only blank is FAKE + CLONED)
This one is real see 94VO that is FR4 flame retarded testing passes. RU is real USA Safety tested. A real silk screen most times tells you real.
The battery too must be marked RU, or that too is fake, USA coded RU.  Some real ones are maked as Japan famous maker Mitsumi® MSU
The below smacks as REAL
The battery too ,lacking RU;/UL or CE safety marks are clones, and like to catch fire.  The
LIP1359 battery has protection chip inside, do not run it lacking this.
The Battery tests  are huge on Lithium Ion batteries, and now more.  (lots of Aircraft fires caused by these types of batteries)
The RU/CE tests in super brief below...  are: and more seen here.
  • Type Test Conditions (even an NE test, no explosions, yah)
    Charging procedures for test purpose
    Continuous charging at constant voltage (lithium-ion cells)
    Molded case stress at a high ambient temperature (lithium-ion battery)
    External short circuit (lithium-ion cell)
    External short circuit (lithium-ion battery)
    Lithium-ion Battery Freefall
    Thermal abuse (lithium-ion cell)
    Crush (lithium-ion cells)
    Over-charging of lithium-ion battery
    Forced discharge (lithium-ion cells)
    Transport Tests ( how not to  crash air planes?)MH370? but yes, others)    and new rules
BUTTONS:?
This is a clone for sure , if you like the action of the buttons, then who cares it is clone that Sony does not sell after 2016 year.
  This odd icon keys are not Violating Sony's trade marked keys, is the reason it looks odd.

If the joy sticks L/R are funky in ANY WAY?, clean them with IPA (walfart, Isopropyl 90% Alcohol  for $1) then air dry it or forced dry with a hair dryer from Wife or GF.  Never use  oil or omg WD40 crap in any electronics.
No grease, no oil of any kind.  (if confused, at all then buy a new joy stick assembly and install it (soldering skills)) cheap.
The joy sticks are just two 10k (10,000) ohm {103}variable resistor (pots). No pot ever lasts forever for sure the abuse these get, in fact they all get dead spots when bad. ALL DO gamed hard.
If they still fail, solder in new joy sticks sold new for $1.50 each at Aliexpress.com, This takes soldering skills , most folks do not have.  (and lead free solder and flux and tools)  ( I like to repair used DS3, real this way)
I am a  JOY stick with 2 POT.'s. best cleaned with IPA or real electronics cleaners, safe for plastics.
In the same vein,  the right trigger switch will fail first.(abused it is for sure FPS games)

The R1/2 rubber touch switch pads,are carbon pile buttons,(switches) just might be the reason my R1/ R2 triggers failed today,or dust got under flex circuit strip that bump contacts the circuit board.

Clean the pads with IPA and dry it. and clean the button switch carbon pad bumper too. (all carbon parts cleaned) hint black seen here is carbon.

 


OK,  lets talk about CHARGING:

The real Sony® can run any game with a dead DS3 battery using the USB cable. (a shorted battery inside not so likely) , remove any bad battery first., or put a new one in)
Any third-party USB charger used must act as a USB host device (and uses all 4 wires in the jack,  but many $1-Store chargers are 2 wired and near useless!) 
(any USB port on a PC  marked as super charger port works best)  Blue colored USB ports USB3 and SS mark and for sure the lightning bolt for super charge ports that stay active PC turned even off.
Below is a  random PC laptop USB ports:
see the lightning bolt, you may need to activate this in PC BIOS for super charger mode, power turned off PC but not the JACK.
Watch out some clones do not turn off the 4 charge lamps when charged as sony does, and that tells me not to leave it plugged in for days or risk wrecking the battery or worse a fire. (use a timer?)
If you have tiny USB-C ports use  any USB-c to USB3 adapter to make this work.
Lean the DS3 sends a  demand (digital) to the PC  that asks for more current, and if the PC is on, the PC does as it was told , if not ,then low power is used, (just like my Cell phone complains "low power extends battery charge time")errors...
Some dumb PCs are high power all the time 5vdc and 1 full amp turned on., USB.  on average 500 to 900mA is normal.  The battery in the PS3 has current limit device inside it to make all this safe.
Do not ever use relic now USB1 cables here with hair sized useless wire. Never.

The Console must be turned ON to charge controllers with its USB ports. (in my Slim)  Sony and others sell a charging station.(our use PC USB3 port SS or lightning bolt marked port that is on when PC is turned off)


History short: PS3 and DS3.
The last revision of DS3 DualShock3 after model A1 is 2013 crystal clear model. (limit world sales)
The actual PS3 PlayStation, ended production for PS3, in OCT 2016
Last made controllers ever are.: (PS3) keep in mind 150 million PS3 sold. or more. last are 2013 , and Real Sony are very rare to find used or harder NOS.
That begs the next question, how did Sony sell PS3 GameStations, in 2016 lacking controllers?, Answer a CACHE Of factory stock did that. (but...)
Many gaming shops (brick USA) report their last orders huge failed in 2016 for new stock from Sony distribution. (this I think is the true end date for REAL)
In a Sony PS3 vacuum now what do we have?  BINGO Clones to the max and rising...
That leaves only USED real, super rare NOS real and last  CLONE crap that varies all over the board in quality and for sure life spans. (2021 comments only) a true crap shoot here.
Some have no Bluetooth FCC ID  at all, fearing FCC catching them lying in Customs forms and repercussions for that...(import bans, fines, etc)

Clues vary and are vast , top one is: (the back side) 
The product sticker on the back being paper instead of aluminum like the official controllers.!!!  and all words there are a lie for sure FCC certs a bold face lie.
My real "DUALSHOCK 3" in white and USA coded.  and is 11 years old and operates like new (SONY made great controllers)

Cloned bootleg knockoff's: (sold for sure after 2016 end of Sony's manufacturing of this item.)
The bootleg guys even clone, the Sony trade marked  box it come in, brazen as H3LL.


FAKE #1  H = fake, NO FCC ID at all = FAKE.  (fully and totally fake) SONY PS button too is fake and may be "P3", there,  and is FAKE, one model DS3 clone the PS button is HOME ICON, like mine at top of this page right corner.
The PS buttton if a SONY ICON is,   blatant illegal. The Circle R is also illegal usage.® , the PS BUTTON maked P3 is a clone home logo and is not illegal that and is mark of truth, I am a clone and very good to know)
The fake label makers are here. (look)
A Rogees gallery?  ( endless sure but clearly fake) H code is fake, and all safety code missing but one. No UL,.RU,CE ,FCC stamps.
IDA  ,   
Infocomm Development Authority of Singapore (IDA) and is equivlant to USA FCC radio radiation safety. only.
Note the FAKE H code at the end, for HongKong but boxed as USA export market, or
a European pad. It should say CECHZC2U and instead says CECHZC2E and again boxed as USA market. (all lies)
Serial number 1 less than 13 , as 12,  and is a fake S/N (lies)  See where to  buy fake lables here.
    see fake#2
The best buys (no pun) of DS3 A1 /A2 controlers are:
  • New , is Not sold  now, they are not made by Sony now,     SOLD new for $50 back then.
  • USED is good, even buy 2 and mix parts to get a win. (some only need connectors inside cleaned (ribbon conn., ends)!
  • Refurbished real DS3,  can be good done right. (Real Sony products)
  • CCCC {C4} (cheap cloned counterfeit crap) or knock-offs. most are illegal using fake Sony ® reg/ trade marks, and fake UL, RU, CE safety tests faked and not done. But may work ok. (some do)
  • NOS, new old stock rear as hens teeth now. (as in long gone)
  • PS4 DS4 partly works on PS3 Systems, but has limits (shock dead and 6 axis dead, no start , no PS button)!  $65 new from SONY direct store.( Any game that needs SIXAXIS or pressure sensitive buttons is an absolute no go.)
  • The face buttons are buttons visible to your face, when holding the controller normally (during play). In other words, they are the D-Pad, Start, Select, and the symbol buttons. (most games unused,but  MGS-4 does 2008)
Some newer clones today work great 5+ years later  (the ones for $ 3 to $6 at Aliexpress are junk;)  Video review of below:  (but if it plays good and you like it be happy) There is little other choices but 1, rebuild a real Sony controller.
One more review on a REAL  DS3 guts,  very good.
So far my new 2021, controller  below works great, the charge battery  mode, works right  fully...(some clones do not) >>. ( do not sleep or leave home while charging any cloned controller)
I tested the below with F1 race car game and SIXAXIS works perfectly.

Data real, charging tests: (mine) (2 clones and one real Sony)
All tests on my Real PC pro gamers desktop Z270p,
(turned on !) USB3, blue super-speed port (SS). ( negotiates for USB power correctly on 4 pins) Never use non charge grade USB cables with hair sized wires inside (USB1 junk)
Results:  (my data ,all) (besides controller works gaming) CHARGING TESTS:

This controller blue Ver:A1 above uses ~170mA of current on charge .  The 2,3 led flashes only !,(real sony flashes all 4)  it goes to 0.010amps (10mA) when charged and LED 2,3 stops flashing !wow! 
My real Sony White  Dualshock3l,  does 0.24 amps, 240 mA Charging. and.....and when fully charged the 4 LED all turn OFF and Amps goes to 0 !. zero ! This is a benchmark for a real controller and good battery inside.
My fake new 2021 RED+lightning bolt DS3, works great,  but is ver:A0) controller does 260mA charging and...never stops flashing the 4 LEDs but does to go 0amps when done charging. I'd not charge it for over 4 hours,ever.

The 4 original PCB inside  (4 evolutions SONY) in the controller looked like this:



TOOLS good and bad 101: "Only for noobs that do not know how to use a Phillip's driver"
I own real tools to do real tests. (amp meters inductive, voltmeters DMM, and 3 scopes prime and voltage and inductive probes both, I can even plot HDD startup current and AC line currents dynamic.)
and...
Did I say tools yes, see my tricky metric phillips screw drivers that some fit PS3,  the trick is to try them for a tight tip fit if not tight do not use that lame driver. (or you will strip the screw drive point)
The better tools have hardend tips (black below) Frankly I wish they were all TORX™ standard sized (and not security class)Torx fits and does not slip nor strip. ( These PHnn, CAM OUT = you strip the screw)
Never use old USA tools on to JIS screws of any kind. NEVER !  Phillips screws can be ROYAL PITA, so have lots drivers, so you can fit them up and not wreck them.


Best on PS3(hand felt and selected) is best method, nothing can be more frustrating than Phillips screws.  (It is not YOU)   They changed spec  10 times in 50  years)<< blame them. (yes phlllips sucks!)
.
The below set from AliExpress look very good as  set.  6 metric drivers. for $5
Sold now as "Stanley tools".



Dreams: (me or you?)
An APP that reports CPU /GPU temperature.  Just that.  (hardware supports it, but not Sony)  (Yes some jailbroke FW does this)
Same thing an APP that run S.M.A.R.T  tests in the HDD/SSD. (even in raw mode) , not me having to move HDD to a real PC just to test it..., dang.
Someone make a  PS3 Diagnostic app.  (tired of blank screens on errors?)
If doing Jailbreaks (not me), CFW,OFW,HFW,or ReBUG,  see this first. (video) there is newer 2020 method Bguerville more simple and more safe.   (pros and cons)  (no more online gaming ! and BANS)
The dream ESX exists. (complex to pull off, and not my bag)
A new simple tool, or APP that will marry the mobo to a new (fully assembly) ODD blu-ray drive.  (and zero risk of bricking it or PSN BANS)

We love playing CO-OP local on the  Couch,  me and my son and my wife.
The cool thing about PS3 having the Game disk in hand is all you need to  play, no long license COA codes to type in or the like ever and all regions of disks work. (and $5 games sold used) So you can buy and sell games used, amazing no?
Blu-Ray movies are only for Region "A" (means, 
North America, South America, U.S. Territories, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, and other areas of Southeast Asia)
I tested vast DVD movies,  and not one ever failed, even region free.  (even a 1930 Laural and Hardy DVD plays) or home made camcorder movie.

Disclaimer, this page is only for 1 of  vast models of PlayStation , only PS3 slim and only version 2001A ! and is only my opinion and from others bricking their PS3.  (read my page only at your risk) period.

I see vast youtube users with plastic vinyl gloves on their hands totally unaware that those are ESD Chip killing Static electric generators.  wow, but the others (rare) use carbon gloves wise. (a grounded wrist strap is all this is needed)
 There is no lead in any device After 1,JAN 2007 ! USA ! PC or USB or whatever.

Version 1.  5-1-2021 ( just a very short story, as most answers are on the web , this page is just to focus on key points of failure)  150million PS3. world wide, no lack of used  good cheap spares. (FFC 24pin  cables none)
All comments are my USA perspectives ONLY !   ( You can find parts and endless $5 game disks on eBay, Amazon or just googling around.)

There is nothing to sell here ever on any of my pages, and no ad.'s , no spam nor any kind of tracking, it is only information. (I have no blogs or forum's or software here)