Everything? to know about external HDD, hard disk drive and Drive Docks.
The word "hard" means hard platter and not old floppy disk flex media.
See my Lightning fast cures , and diagnosis here. (all reasons to fail and all tests and cures) << go here first , this page covers all types of failures and all classes of Ext. HDD.
We use these devices and product below to test HDD under suspension or to back up data. (any)
The time to backup is before your main boot drive gets corrupted ! (or goes BAD)
I use AOMEI backup (free) to backup all my data or to clone any drive you want.
The external DOCK, or enclosure, or a DOCKING STATION , just get this and do not read why it works below, complexity is never simple with computers. ok?
Do know that some folks avoid all this and use cloud storage.
Both source and destination HDD must be good to copy files, and neither failing S.M.A.R.T, tests, nor allowing either 1 or both drives to be full. (ever)
A drive may be good , fully, just lacks a drive letter assigned by you in Disk-Manager. (or was never formatted or formatted wrong, or not NTFS)
Some drives fully scrambled can be cured using these erase steps.
See my page on how to test suspected bad HDD here.
This page is about all PCs working with the best external drive enclosure or interface or dock, you can make one your self. ( or DIY and buy the case, then buy any drive)
This first "POWER" rule does not apply to 2.5" 1TB cheap external HDD as seen here. (by WD or Seagate say sold at Target or Walmart)
This drive runs on Windows 10 with no problems and is NTFS formatted correctly NIB, new in a box.
1-TB is common cheap size. (note the lack of any kind of power pack here) Even better is any External SSD !
Most folks use this and have no problem if they use the Task bar or Explorer "EJECT" radio BUTTON. (Or do this)
Click me to zoom Easy drive. a 2.5" disk inside.
The above drive can be S.M.A.R.T tested with free and safe. DISKCHECKUP
If no fail there data can be recovered with Recuva for free.
THOSE BIG 3.5" DRIVES. (the case of this drive alone is 1-inch tall, 4-inches wide and 5.8" long and with enclosure added bigger)
3.5" is the actual disk inside Diameter.
The more tricky HDD to get working is below the BIG FAST DRIVES.
2TB to 16TB 3.5" and the fastest HDD on earth in fact.
The Same 2 tests can be run on this huge drive too. Do so.
The huge drive fails for some very simple reasons.
The Mobile ST2000LM007 (see the motor "SpinUp" current here to learn why the power pack is not optional)
ST31500341as go as high at 2.8 amp motor startup.
USB hell: (cured using my special USB enclosure)
Vast models of PC can not ever do USB power demands 100MA to 2amps. (only USB -C can do 2amps)
I have USB current tester and tells me in seconds what power is there, at full load 4.6vdc minium voltage drop (from 5v) and the current it can handle.
The wiki is some help here. See this chart, see 100mA hopeless ports? Many External drives run fine with USB v3. 900mA is concidered minimun on most modern PC. USB -C tops the cake, at full 3amps 15watts.
USB-C can run any drive made.
Most PC made today or last 5 years can do 800mA current easy. This current will run the red Easy drive seen above.
USB 3 is super common now.
The 3.5" drive cure is simple use only Enclosures and DOCK's with its own power pack rated 2amps or more. (SOLVED)!
or buy the BC1.2 powered hub with a 5amp power pack!
This is cheap slow 3.5" HDD that uses about 2.25 amps of motor startup current. Many USB ports made can not run this drive. (lacking a power pack)
This is scope view of current (using a current probe )
Below is trick in windows Device Manager on some PC , that can show the actual current available on a USB port. (possible and actual both)
Motor spins up, and uses lots of current.
Here is my oldest 3.5" HDD encluser box, that still works in windows and needs 2.0amps of power or the Drive inside will be born dead.
Do not forget to connect the 12vdc 2.0 amp or larger I used 2.5amps for my newer faster drive. Do not mix up power packs or forget to use one.
This first example is old 2010 model, that overheats any real fast drive, 10watts of heat will never be expelled here and overheats fast.
But cheap 250GB, low power , slow HDD work fine.
This funny trick below shows cables sold that allow you to add up 2 weak ports and get 2times the power to any HDD external.
The odd thing about PCs is that you need to stagger the 2 cable wide as most PC share power on 4 USB ports in a group.
Yes very tricky wiring inside cheaper PCs.
If each port is 500mA rated now you have 1amp to start up the motor.
Even better is :
The great USB powered HUB.
Cured ! This HUB has huge power pack, that powers all jacks below. This device makes any PC used , to have at least 2 amps of power to USB devices and is FULLY 100% Active HUB (not passive at all)
ONE MORE POWER GRAPH (SCOPE VIEWED LIVE This is for 3.5" drives only, skip these facts for 2.5" slow drives.
The External HDD is: The drive maker seagate used Ocillicope and a nice current probe to do this, (means it's REAL)
Seagates current 3.5" "Desktop HDD series" (runs 2 to 2.5AMP startup in red below, on the 12vdc line.
This current is huge, and power on 2.5inch is 5watts max but this one is 30watts, 6 times more.!!! 6 Time more power is needed to spin up this large HDD.
This is an Enterprise drive:
The green line is 5vdc turning on .(the step)
The red line is 12vd motor startup current on the ST6000NM0235 drive.
Again these are scope views with current probe on the motor power wire. 2.52 Amps to start up motor (in red)
I hate to tell you USB can not run this drive for POWER. Unless TYPE C or better. (charger current rated USB ports may work here, I have not tried it)
ONE more SCOPE VIEW (real)
This Drive run great in my powered external case and my DOCK USB and eSTAT both work.
If power is lacking you will hear the HDD try to spin up then fail and spin down , repeats forever and is not good to run any drive like that for more than a minute or 2.
eSATA: (cable connected HDD) (some PC can even hot swap the cable setup correctly)
Some laptops do not have a 12vdc pin on the eSATA port, making the motor dead, on any connected HDD. (unless you connect a 12vdc power pack to the drive.)
MY RECOMENDATIONS: (for simple and cheap Case/enclosure boxes) This needs power lack if AC line is missing. 2.5amps 12vdc or more amps are needed.
This is only for testing drives and not for any drive that overheats fast like my 6TB drives do, so do not put the cover on over any fast 3.5" HDD, or it will overheat.
Do not leave cover closed on real HDD 3.5" or it will overheat, for sure the fastest drives do. Max temp on my Seagates datasheet shows 60C is max, 40c max is my goal.
Love it. For testing drives. (only)
One more is my faster and high powered, enclosure below. (seen this on ebay.com)
The is like one of the first ever super fast HDD enclosures. dirt cheap and super thing fragile plastic. (I will replace it soon but only with FAN based cases)
ORICO 3.5 inch USB C Hard Drive Enclosure for SATA HDD Support Max 8TB UASP SATARuns my SEATAGE ST6000DM001 3.5" HDD 6TB at full speeds, 200MB/s + in fact more. (with my new USB-c PCI-e card upgrade)
I have this fastest HDD on earth in this box. (fastest means a real rust spinner drive not SSD hybrid jive.
From MIGHTY SEAGATE !
Cute, does no win over function. ( real world matters) and heat is #1. The bad casing has not one air vent and will kill dead any 3.5" fast drive quickly. (my old 250GB slow old HDD run cool) so fast is hot as is higher RPM.
This will overheat my fast 6TB 3.5" HDD to 60ºC fast, so I bored, 10 holes (1/4" bit) on the bottom and 6 on the top and use a vertical base to keep air flowing the correct way) 41C now. (20º over ambient)
the USB-C chip here is rocket FAST (love it) but hate the case I DO ! (good for SSD not for HDD)
The casing is useless for hot fast HDD, for sure my 6TB screamer.(so is modified now) Love speed , hate hot and no fan.
with 12vdc 2.0amp(+) power pack for 3.5" drives is a must. 2.5 or 3a better.
This casing Un-altered, above is for SSD or old slow cool 2.5" drives.(only)
My drive is fast but overheats, due to the poor case design (plastic)
Cured: (in truth they made the case fit razor close (top/bot) inside, making air flow near impossible..)
See how cheep always wins over quality in China, ?
I Plane to move the PCB inside to far far better case, fan cooled case, 20CFM fan.
I drilled lots of hole and added a fan and now it does runs super cool. (ugly yes, fast and cool yes) Ignore dust it is now gone.
I would never do this if not for the super fast speed USB-C chip inside (a rocket it is !!!!) China are you listening.? The case is for slow cheap drives only, not hot 3TB on up, ever.!!
Nobody makes a 1-BAY USB-C case with a fan, and needs one for 3.5" !!!!!!. (on drives this fast and mine is fastest HDD rust drive sold on earth) 10watts it uses and must not be CONFINED and running at 60C ever.
The above case will be in the trash soon and a real case made for it, from scratch, here. The Electronics (super good) will be reUSED.
HEAT KILLS ANY HDD DEAD FAST (40C max is my goal or less (my PC now I'm typing the HDD is 31C.)
6TB HDD above. "ST6000DN001 " By Seagate. (it is the fastest HDD made, but does run hot if you ignore its needs) 35C good, 90C bad. (spec, max is 60C <<, read it carefully and make it happen)
Learn that fast huge drives can take 25seconds to spin up and stabilize ( this is no SSD sorry nor is it some cheap but cool 2400rpm laptop drive)
Enclosures 101: (cases) (avoid cases with no manual at all or only in Chinese or worse just a lame spec.)
Also called DAS and is NOT NAS (no network hear means it is a DAS) "Direct Attached Storage."
The best 3.5" external HDD is not the silly plastic thing above (but is fast) here is my list of condtions in the proper order.
(MACRO) Runs cool, is fast (true) and lasts a long time and is FAST, (repeat 3 times ) All HDD fail quickly if allowed to overheat. 30 to 37c is ok. 60C is illegal. (voids maker warranty and is smart logged too... yup...)
If you want a real a RAID system (and Jbod + windows Storage Spaces) does not float your boat try a real server, like my Dell R710
Last if you get the fast chip set USB3.1Gen2 later as SSD prices drop you can upgrade to SSD and 560MB/s speeds.
Failures: ( I do 2 tests, one with SSD fast and then my 6TB fasted HDD made by Seagate.(above photo graphic test)
Orinco 9528U3 has old J-micron chip set JMS567+JMB575 (circa 2013 USB3 and slow) , and real speed drops to 35MB/s with the above drive.
Far better is way newer. JM-583 1000MB/s(10Gbps)! and ASMedia 2142 chipset or ASMedia 3142
The chipset VT-716G4 is super fast. (seen in clear cased 1bay enclosure but the fast HDD oveerheats horribly)
Try to learn that in the world of FAST HDD, means hot running. (high RPM + losts of platters run hot) and your job is to keep the HDD below 60C (40c is my goal)
Even if the right chipseta are used the firmware in the bay box can be a slug, doing backups.
USB3.1 Gen 2 or USB-C same speed or better is a goal. Use only USB3.1 gen2 cables ! (some USB cable will fail hard if old USB1 or near )
Raid, most of these toy grade RAID boxes do not support at all , doing any kind of service, when 1 drive fails, and you get a dead system. (unlike my R710 by Dell), so use only JBOD in this case.
A real 2bay and UP enclosure must power up 2 or more drives never ever all at once of you just overloaded its weak 2/3/4amp PSU. (sequential is the way 1 by 1 and 20 second delay each)
USB4 is not sold yet, even 3.1gen2 are only a few choices
Looks like Qnap is the best, (but I can buy a top Dell server used for less.) $200 is not cheap but work it , if it works and lasts.
My dell Raid 6 server with SAS drives can hit same speeds as ONE SATA SSD ! have proof, and no DAS can do that.
Rule #1 read all Amazon reviews first. (if heat is mentioned run away) do not read Derps thinking DAS is NAS, amazing folly there.
Worse of all no instructions exist. ( step 1, insert 4 new or erased HDD if doing RAID) or if doing JBOD insert any drive erased or not and it shows up as a JBOD and all data there.
Plug them in 1 by 1, and wait minutes each, (rear red RAID switch set first on empty chassis) Do not just slam them in willy-nilly. or it will fail.
This box in RAID mode for sure can not use other formatted disks or other RAID alien structures of any kind. (gee the box is not GOD like)?
What is RAID, the #1 reason for RAID is for production. (That word means a server that never goes down, like the one you are on now, my web page)
That means I can remove a drive bad and replace it and the system only slows down as it rebuids the new drive (stripping) Goal #1, and that means the RAID system has hot spare too, IMO, like a. Dell R710
The 2nd reasons for RAID is either have more space or faster total drive space , or a mix of speed and more space.
These DAS boxes are only cheap toy RAID systems. But yes use JBOD and MS Windows storage spaces that becomes MS RAID ViaW10. (<read up on this to learn just how good or bad it is)
To the confused, my noobs list.:
These BOXes come on 4 types,
Seen here below: (USB3.1 Gen2 or better is best)
As you can see the Asus PC must not be slow. (back i/o ports 4 x USB 3.2 Gen 1 (blue) Type-A )
Then all points end to end must not be slow. or overloaded with traffic.
Last is the box, on the end, the port needs to be USB3.1 gen2 or faster,mine is USB-c.
This chipset fast is VL-716 (VIA Technologies) Gen2 USB3.1 to SATA 6Gb/s + Bridge Controller for Type-C . +SuperSpeedPlus USB (10Gb/s) and High-Speed USB (480Mb/s
As you can see the bottle neck is SATA 6. or the actual HDD on the end, mine is 228MB/s per benchmark above. (even the silly cable can be too slow for sure old slow ones)
The acid test is stuffing in a super fast SSD in the box.
end RAID end DAS
One more device that technicans use to test or clone any 2.5" HDD.
This works only on +5vdc single rail drives, like 2.5" have. (SSD or HDD both)
Using a docking bay has a 2 rail power bus, 5v and 12vdc and runs any drive you want SATA.
Any 3.5" drive must have 12vdc or the the motor is dead. (if doing that and using the below class of adapter, make sure it states good for 3.5" drives too.)
I use only this adapter called dock. (for testing or cloning ,etc)
Tests and cures below, all. (this device is portable / mobile making the number of causes of failure HUGE)
First up is the top 4 causes of failure are:
Now a longer list and more testing.
The USB port is dead, or all are dead, seen in device manager , the cure is getting the right drivers for your USB port and 1 more for the drive enclosure chip.
Solutions to a dead or flaky HDD external drive: Lightning fast all causes of FAILURES and all cures list for W10 only.
This is long due to the complexity of any external HDD, (hint vast types exist, HDD in 2.5" or 3.5", SSD , or USB drives or Esata drives.) I will cover only USB.
Did you test the HDD USB on all USB PORTS? this is first.
Does USB thumb drive work in all USB ports and a mouse work on all USB ports , if yes the USB ports are not dead, so next we check USB external HDD drivers for good , bad or missing.
Did you test the HDD on a good 2nd PC to be sure the drive is not failing?
Did you lose the 3.5 inch sized HDD power pack, opps?
The drive must show up in 3 places not just one , and in this order, Device Manager and then next in DISK Manager and for sure last Explorer.("This PC") with a drive letter.
If missing in Device Manager that means the drive is dead USB dead or the HDD driver (sw) is wrong or missing or none exists for W10. (I focus on W10 here) ( go to: control panel + device manager)
If ok in device manager we next look in Disk manager next, C:\Windows\System32\diskmgmt.msc (location of app) we type in the run box Diskmgmt.msc and bingo go there. (fast way) or 7 ways seen here.
The ext. drive must be here, if not it is bad or fails in device manager. If it is there it must have a drive letter, if not add one (right click drive change drive letter), or it can not show up in EXPLORER, ever.
If the ext. HDD is super old for 2001 to 2007 XP PC's back then or VISTA , those are no good now on W10 as the maker, never published a W10 SW driver made now. SW means software here a Device DRIVER.
The larger 3.5" HDD had a power pack when new and was lost? or using the wrong one, many drives now sold new 2.5" only, needs no power pack like Seagate's 2TB Model: STHN2000403
If the larger HDD (3.5") does not spin up the power pack is wrong or missing or the HDD is bad, it must be heard to spin up.
If the drives does show up in Explore but fails now, we do this diskcheckup and if failed that is a bad HDD
The HDD fails on all USB ports on 2 PCs, (both PCs windows 10, I do not do Linux here or MAC support) nor is the drive formatted for Apple nor Linux.(reformat the drive to NTFS)
NTFS format is best for recovery, on any Windows based PC.
If you are lucky and the HDD works but files are corrupted: We do this next.
The HDD has data that I do not want to lose. (run Recuva for free.)
Some relic super old LAPTOPS with USB1 spots (weak 100mA ports) that fail, I then: (buy and use an exernal power buffer seen here for a cure.)
Most old XP , HDD external drive chassis do not run on W10 now at all lacking current drivers. See the chip I am talking about here?
The in proper order , step by tiny step list that finds true causes of failure . (all) MS = Microsoft and CP means control panel.
Rule#1 the PC must be internet connected for Plug and Play can work (PnP). (for sure the first time using any new USB device of any kind)
Best is have Windows sounds enabled, in control panel for USB , connection sounds.
See the word mass storage DEVICE USB? in Disk drives if not it is a dead drive or dead USB port. (fact) that is why tesitng on all USB ports and 2 PCs, to prove that.
Lean to EJECT the HDD External when done, if not you risk corrupting the drive. See cures here.
This cures failure to Eject errors, forever. But here is a great page on failure to eject, from PCworld.(tm)
Do not allow Windows to run indexing on any external Drive, HDD or SSD, or if doing so EJECT will fail. Close all APPS and EJECT the drive with Caching (write) turned off.
Right click the DRIVE (E:) and pick properties, and then on that page turn off allow indexing.
CASHING OFF (write):
Photo #1 (In Control Panel, I clicked Device Manager) if the line with black arrow shows, errors , here that is a bad driver for the external HDD. (W10 does not support lots of 15 year old drives external)
Do not forget to look for bad. USB ports are not dead and the external HDD shows up as seen below;
This cures FUTURE corruption. (turns off WRITE CACHING)!! Current corruption can be cured by doing what is seen in photo3.
This only works if drive is good, this is before you do wrong things with the drive. (as in new drive, formated and is E: (or what it is) and doing this makes EJECTING the drive not needed ever.)
this check mark here prevents HDD corruption next time , unplugged before ejected.
Photo #3 A NTFS drive will be corrected using CHECK below, So only uses NTFS format.
In windows, right click a drive , pick properties and then tools and run the MS CHECK (of drive)
If "CHECK fails" run Recuva for free.
Cures behond this are vary clostly. ( short of a new HDD)
Once connected you can :
It is so good it can see past some RAID controllers!, ( true magic that)
Diskmanager the long way there is: Start run box , find Control panel, +, Admin tools + computer managment., + diskmanager (or 7ways here)
In run search box type diskmgmt.msc
Or in Start menu, right click ThisPC and pick MANAGE (a cute trick this is for us lazy bindle stiffs !