No Internet?          
           I can not get connected to the web ?

Warning 1 for XP Windows, XP does not run WIFI  WPA2 ! mode until SP2 or SP3 is installed +Wanacry. (SP3 is the best answer here for vast reasons) Service Pack3. (and this warning)
Looks like Microsoft deleted the SP3 , so get it here.

See my short wifi security section.
There are vast ways to lose the internet . (both hardware or software caused or not configured correctly, or you ISP is off line now or today or ? Call them?))
The best way to test is to  have 2 good PC's and test them both on your Router, do both fail?  (yes, borrow a PC or ask a friend to test your router for up or down status)

The Best and first way to get connected fast is buy and use a wired Ethernet  cable called a CAT/5/6.  (from PC to Router)
The cable is Sold in all stores with PC accessories department, even Walmart!

I will assume you are at home, not sitting in say StarBucks™ drinking their burnt coffee bean juice.

I will not try to guess, who or what your ISP (internet service provider) is,  Dial-up,  DSL, SAT modem, cable modem with 1 to 16 channel cable,  FIOS or 3/4g wireless cards (WWLAN)(or USB wireless stick?)
There are at least 6 ways to get internet service.  (pick one use that)
I will assume you have THEIR (ISP)  modem sitting there, and it works,  your ISP's job is only that.  (make that work).
The best way is to call the ISP and first connect up with the wired Ethernet cable to your Router, jack and call for SERVICE now.
The Modem must have power and shows status that it is connected on its LED lights.(it has a manual to read, and covers that topic) If not clear or confused now, call the ISP (on the horn/cell)

ETHERNET is the best , fastest and the most easy to setup) In the world of high tech, always try simple first, then play wifi last, or never.
In fact your PC came new, out of the box (OOBE) with a working Ethernet ready to work, if you just plugged into the router or modem directly it will work, 99% of the time)
Sadly the new thin flimsy PCs (notepads have no Ethernet JACK) and are a huge pain to test or setup. (not me, I have special tools)
I will never attempt to cover 36 years of  PC connections, only the most common and most problematic older PCs. (like 5 to 15 years old)
Here are some common network connections, at home.
If you run old LAN  cards, NICs of any kind, like relic 10 or 100 base  not far better  1000Mb/s  speeds,  nothing beats (at home no fiber) 1000Mbit/s Ethernet, but Modern WiFI can beat the old 10/100Mbit/s NIC cards and chips made long ago.
If you have an older or relic slow router running 10/100 speeds your internet will be slow.(as will Wifi).
Next is your ISP modem , of many types some are slow others are fast or super fast,and you get exactly what you pay for in service, avoid dial up  and DLS, best is FIOS (glass fiber FC)  to the home and next is 16 channel cable modems.

THE BIG EASY: (wired is super easy , called Ethernet) Just plug it and and it will work ! If not call the ISP or read the below details.
Let say the cable modem is wired to the ISP cable and the modem jack on the rear (Ethernet) is wired to M (for modem) jack below and Power P wire is connected to power pack and has power to the wall AC.
I will assume you have a router (it be wise to have it) and it has  bank of Ethernet ports and WIFI antenna's. (here is mine)
Just connect these parts, up with CAT5/6 cable, (Walmart sells the cable at  the rack left at photo counter left) buy one, say 15ft. (5meters){100meters max}
See E port below is Ethernet port 1 to 4 all work pick one, , connect your PC to say port 1,  and the other end of this CAT:5/6 cable say 15  foot long. 
This Cable wired goes to your PC matching type RJ45 Jack
It is the same kind of  RJ45 jack called LAN or Ethernet. (do not use old landline phone cables, that look kinda like this but has only 4 pins)
P =  power, the router must  have power from the power pack to the wall AC jack (the LED glows on the router)
M= Modem goes to your modem if your ISP gave you only one box, it maybe a 2 in 1 box,  Modem + rotor or even 3 things with WIFI. (in that case there is no M jack only a CABLE JACK to the TV cable system or to DSL)
Let me stop here and say your ISP responsibility ends at the E JACK, the make it work there at E and your responsibility is find a good PC that works there.
True to is if the ISP sold you WIFI then they help you get that working, so call them.
You turn on your PC and this E cable below starts working by the magic of Windows, (or Linux) (plug and play (PnP)does that)
We always do this first so we can do fast MS updates or get huge video drivers or just use it all the time , it is the fastest connection of all , this one here is  a GigaLan speed port. I use it all the time, at home.
Wifi is slow and problematic for may locations in the USA. We use WIFI here only to lower our CELL phone data bills, to zero. (wifi turned on, at home)
All our TVs are Ethernet wired to here.

Typical Examples of connections shown here:
The Router on the left DIR-655,  and the Desktop PC on the right (relic) has on board Ethernet chip, (good Laptop PCs have the same RJ45 Ethernet jack there.)
Photos: (the plug has a spring plastic lock, do not force it out, depress the TAB first)
THIS blue cable goes to E on the left.
This is a very common PCI Ethernet card, used on very very old Desktops,  The best ones are GigaLan rated and PCIe slots. The below right photo is an very modern top class (love them) Asus M5a99FX MOBO;
this is the E jack , Ethernet with 8pins Gold.
Photo of CAT5 RJ45 Ethernet connectors must before the crimp actions.(this is an advanced type of connector making the fit up more easy) Call this the E cable.
I am making my own cable now with my special tools. Most folks just buy a cable. But  home made are vastly cheaper, 10 cent connectors.

What if Ethernet fails.? It should not, but can. (running XP or VISTA  both are now a dead OS)  
On top reason for the Ethernet dead, on old dead now  XP is the missing old old Realtek chip 8101L driver. (how it got dead?, is easy, after 16 years someone deleted it, for SURE)
Realtek (but  never Intel) web site is a horror to navigate, now, with missing links and dead links. The above driver is here and is official 8101L , 8130,8139 (click Global !)
The XP plug  and play driver servers are now down read my drivers page now, so  expect problems with XP. (Vista now too, spring 2017 are now zero support)
How to find drivers on old non supported PCs is and ART , A SKILL set. What I do is learn what chip is dead, what is its makers name and true model number , in all cases (PnP failures)

As soon as I see my , E port dead, I do this:
I click Control Panel  in the start button, then pick device manager (DM) and then find this page below, photo3. (in the run box type devmgmt.msc)
See the DM photo below.
See "network adapters"  bingo.
Below is a LAN wired chip 82577  and below it is WLAN wireless chip wireless. N6200, your PC has different chip names, but are very important to know if DEAD !
See my Gigalan chip from intel (or yours might be Realtek or other brands Broadcom?)
Double left click it that line, first see "device is working" then if it's not working click  update Driver software..  (right clicked)
 If the Ethernet is dead, you can't  update Dead via the dead port because of,,, the,,,,
(The classic Chicken and the EGG conundrum.)
If this happens to you? , (mostly on old XP  and VISTA) we find any working web connected PC anywhere on earth and download the correct matching driver (the OS, and CHIP there must match)

If your PC has no local driver for your E chip, it fails,  I then go to and get the  correct LAN driver,  for you exact PC and matched to your exact OS version.
If the Ethernet is working you can click on the wireless chip below and do an update, in all cases W7 and UP.  XP is dead now. (like a barrel of rotting apples XP is)
Photo:3: W10 DM.  If  a line is RED/YELLOW or Unknown, that means the Driver is BAD ! (missing in most cases) In all cases it means PnP could not find the correct driver, for these reasons.
The 577 is my E chip, the next chip is wifi  in my case it is Centrino from intel.
Getting the above ETHERNET to work first , makes getting wifi up 10 times more easy, now that the internet is working. (PnP will start working (not XP nor VAST now)
You found your chips real name, then got the correct matching driver and now it works.

If the PC is 10 years old or less find the driver at HP driver pages for your PC, 
The Task bar  Ethernet ICON will not have X marked across it, telling you the Ethernet is not dead here > no X mark in the E Icon means it's working.
If PnP fails to find the wifi chip then the process to find a good driver is the same. As shown here.

We enter this point Ethernet works and the wireless driver in DM above is not dead.  (if unsure then reload the wifi driver from HP now and first)
WIFI (wireless LAN WLAN):
Step 2, WiFi... wireless. I will do this manually for best security, no wizards do I  trust for wifi ever.
Next is configuring the Router, wireless pages. (I assume it's your router no the ISP and you know its password)
  1. Read the manual on your , router, mine is DIR655,  I read the manual and it tells me my router page is here.  Most router new , you power up and the LAN  is running now and firewall is in full protection.
  2. Page 16 tells me IP address is my page address. ,so paste that into any browser I use FF v55 firefox. and land on the Routers home page, login.
  3. The user name is admin and  the password is blank (changed my PW day 1, to "something secret")
  4. I click Setup, click wireless settings top left. click manual wireless setup (bottom of page)
  5. Bingo you are there.See below settings,  These are best .
  6. Set the side to your DOG name or whatever floats your boat.  FIDO2, Is one silly example. Do not use same names as others seen in your hood.
  7. Next I pick a channel not used in the hood most.  (least used) Ch6 is  good guess.
  8. Avoid WEP, totally use WPA1 or 2.and last pick a KEY (use words not in any dictionary, like 1$xy59!@z
  9. Save settings first then exit setup and at any cell phone you can now see FIDO2 and connect easy. and last you PC does the same. (FIDO2, WPA, Key) 1,2,3 you are in.
  10. On the PC make sure its not in airplane mode. (wifi off nor off in BIOS) then do the setups, in said PC. FIDO2, WPA, and key) bingo you are now connected via WIFI.
Photo 5 Dir-655,
This is my router,  yours will be functionally the same, but total different pretty screens and have it's own login rules. (and IP address)

I kept this as short and sweet as possible.  (I don't use WPS , read you router manual to set up wireless protected setup and PIN) I consider WPS to be non secure.
If all this works, now the Internet works 2 ways, now, wired and wireless.
Best is to know how to use both, so you can fix problems as they arise.

How to switch back and forth from Wifi and wired (Ethernet)? {after both work right}
There are 2 access points on W10.
  • On the task bar double click this tiny connection icon (as see here, double left click this red arrow icon and pick any network you own (means have sign in credential to)
  • Way 2 is next,, Push start  menu  and pick "Settings" (in the windows key usage , menu  Settings is in the "S" section )
  •  Then in the new W10 Setting menu pick , "network & Internet"
  • Then see the below menu,  if  Wi-Fi is missing that means your wifi drivers are missing wrong or corrupted, the cure is obvious; reload them fresh from HP.
  • If HP did not make your Wi_Fi device, then get the driver from you maker, of said device, 100 of makers, so, only you know what you bought and installed.
  • If said device is a USB -WiFi dongle, you need to get USB working first then get the correct driver from the dongle maker.
  • See the left side here,  If I click Ethernet I can use that to connect to it. Below is my 2 WI-FI routers, daisy chained on my GigaLAN , FIDO1 and 2.
  • I am on Ethernet now, but if I was to click Fido1 and connect it would then be on Wi-Fi.

The below  is showing I am connected to Ethernet now.

Why WIFI is so hard to use and keep working,  WIFI is a problem child, unlike Ethernet, wired.
Let me list them. WIFI can be super unreliable in a big city what vast persons sharing 10 channels and huge electrical noise in this region. (crazy RFI)
  1. Drivers bad. or using the wrong ones. tops the list, see above sections for the cure.
  2. You are too far from the Router antenna's   even 50 feet is too far and if bricks in walls, ouch, less. (or run 2 or 3 wifi repeaters in your home, like I do)
  3. Lots of neighbors use you channels,  so use a different  radio band/channels , move higher see photo 5 above?, Use this program to see them all, and then move to a quiet channel.
  4. Interference,  All radios made even wifi and BlueTooth(tm) can be jammed,  called RFI , Radio Frequency Interference.  (like using near by LED lights, or old land line wireless phones (cheap) and other noisy lamps, (vast)
  5. One tactic that works well,  is to kill the power to all rooms in the house, but the one AC power  jack running your router/modem,  does wifi work now? BINGO.  RFI  is real.
  6. Not running dual band WIFI ! single band is a relic, upgrade now. 
  7. Even street lights in the hood can in fact jam wifi,  the ones with choppers inside,  just like the LED desk lamps used in your rooms  and are very bad RFI emitters.
  8. Some florescent lamp fixtures, have some very nasty digital ballast device inside, (not the nice transformer kinds) and it's really this very noisy  chopper inside,  ditch them for CLASS B rated devices, FCC.
  9. Old relic baby monitors also Jam 2.4GHz radio band,  This band is super busy.  Avoid all 2.4GHZ , other devices in the home that are not wifi devices.
  10. Learn to that wifi is  a SHARED resource , and is in public shared  too.  Wifi uses collision rules, that if overloaded/over crowded ,this causes it to run VASTLY SLOW.
  11. Use  wired LAN connections, any time you can and avoid all this PAIN.  Use WiFi only as a last resort.
  12. One way to reduce your RFI noise is buy home general devices that have real FCC (USA) Class B certifications. (no lies from China saying ,so but are not) Even those cheap imported screw in florescent lamps make noise. (Class A)
(1)The word kill above means flip the circuit breakers to OFF,  I have my router and modem on a UPS and I can run laptop on battery power and test the wifi with all power to the home cut dead, testing for wifi noise.
or unplug all things in all rooms 1 by 1,. (all power cords unplugged from walls, all lamps in the room off, as a test only) (but no the router or modem and the PC under test)
Wifi can have a very limited range as low as 50 feet.  (or none through solid or worse REBAR failed concretet or bricks.)
We can also upgrade the router to one that puts out full 1watt wifi power. 10x more. (D-link Dir-879)

Last and not least is the WIFI RADAR , I call it that,  the executable file is called  Insidder.exe
We run this program (app) it free, goggle it.  (your wifi chip/card but be working and not in airplane mode)
This is you and your neighbors, wifi broadcasts. (the photo below is random found ., not mine)
The SSID is your WIFI name, from your router.
The place to be is here, on dead unused  channels; see why?, less traffic. In my hood , I'm on the upper band, 2.4GHz, the 5GHz band suffers poor range and for sure through walls. (but is good have 2 band wifi end to end)
If you run the program on any laptop and on battery power you can walk from your router and see the RF signals  drop (RSSI)eg -74 is weak,  as it drops data speeds slow and far enough the link disconnects.|
Trick 2 is use channels that are weak,  below the bottom of this list are the weak channels , and you can use them with great advantages. (you strong, they weak) WIFI is radio technology.
9 Access points seen. Using WEP is dumb in my opinion, it has been cracked. I keep my WEP mode only, DISABLED .

Those are base bands,  or to a HAM guy and RF Carrier. (channels) USA channels only here. I have one one on the low band and one router on the high band here.

Security and WIFI danger.
In the router turn off ACCESS POINT and Pin codes, (the button on the side of the router, WPS, is now dead )  Wifi protected setup OFF.
Never use WEP encryption.
Always have pass phrase to log in to WIFI with 8-10 characters and ever use dictionary words ever.
Get a good router or update it so the KRACK , exploit  is not  there. (keeping remote access off and WPS is fast way to avoid KRACK)
Turn off remote access management  in the router
Turn WAN PING off,  (do not let the web hackers Ping YOU ever!)
Guest zone off, and DMZ off.
Have no holes in your Routers Fire wall, unless you know how to do that safely.
Never use  a  simple modem directly, always have  are router firewall there and setup clean.
Always keep the firmware in your router fresh and the most current. (go to the makers web site, and read what is newest here, directly and do get the KRACK fix as soon as it comes out)
And worse of all, running a 100% OPEN AD HOC wifi with zero security and no passwords. (you be doomed)

version 2  11-19-2017