No Internet?          
 I can not get connected to the web ?  Assumptions  you are at home and for sure not at work!
See my new Discovery dead and or  shares failing page. (sub-lan failures)

First off why not try using that wonderful wired  Ethernet connection to your home router?
Why does older wifi and even class 801"N" STINK !?
Upgrade your systems to 801.11-"ac" (near impossible on many old DEVICES)
Or buy those new mesh Wifi extenders, but are expensive. (that allow huge  homes to have full wifi coverage and no dead spots, even in the Pool patio area and garages or the kids tree house)
If you buy alien devices (routers? or AP) from alien countries, why do you wonder that Wifi acts up?, see why here.

First off  if you connect any PC or TV  to the router wired directly  with a Cat5/6 Ethernet CABLE and if that works then internet is not dead  . ( $15 cable  even at Walmart).  (if  ethernet is dead look here)
If  Ethernet  works, and only 1 WIFI PC or Cell phone fails on WIFI the that device be it PC or CELL has wifi problems.
If all WiFi devices (things) fail in the home then your router is setup wrong or is too far away or you forgot your login credentials.
I will not cover wide area wireless called WLAN 3/4/5G service  , at all, but  do call your 3G or LTE service provider and get help (Verizon or T-Mobile or what ever you have for this service provider)
WLAN is not WIFI,  (wifi is short ranged 50feet or less (bluethooth worse) and WLAN is endless, distance wise for sure in CELL phone towers, vast matrix in your city. 
I will not cover Satellite service. (nor Dial up )
If Ethernet wired fails on only 1 PC then load the missing driver for that Ethernet port (device) per this way.
If Ethernet works and only wifi fails, then read the below sections as they apply. Never just test 1 Wifi device, do at least 2, after all WIFI can be DOWN. (or JAMMED)
There are 2 speed tests to try,  PC to PC inside the home called sublan speeds and then the internet  speed tests. (if later fails do the former test next) for speed. If the former fails the latter is hopeless, (bottle necks in home is first order failures)
Now priorities:
You payed your ISP bills and your service to your home is active not off line (call them first if ethernet fails)
Next testing at least 2 wifi device in the home. Be sure 2 fail  not just 1 device, say only 1 PC or 1 cell phone fails. (if only one fails it needs service)

To use wifi you need your login credentials or use the WPS magic button login. (if your router supports this method) RTM read your routers manual to use that. (WPS = wifi protected setup , magic) Some even have WPS PIN code.
There are only 2 ways to learn your credentials, (you are the owner of your router, and know them, or not, if the ISP owns it and told you them on install day or handed you a card with said credentials.
If you bought your own router in  stort, they you own it.
If your ISP delivered a single box called modem/router then they own it. (if they do only they can help you, ok?)
ISP means Internet service provider.
SSID is your WIFi broadcast name. (fun are Pet names here , FIDO1?, MadDog2) Warning some newer routers do this,  D_link_mac , it uses part of your MAC address to create a default unique SSID , so use just that if you want.
EG: SSID = Ghost1a  , encryption set to = WPA/WPA2-Personal  and last your very own Pass-Phrase (word) like this : 1@357azB!uyk (use your own code) I like LASTPASS created Passwords. (free too)
A good password makes the wifi very secure. (do not use dictionary names for PW)
For good reasons, (security ) Avoid WPS feature.

See my short wifi security section.
There are vast ways to lose the internet . (both hardware or software caused or not configured correctly, or you ISP is off line now or today or ? Call them?))
The quick way to restore it is  push the routers back side reset button for less than 1 second,  the modem I just unplug power for 1min and put it back. 
The best way to test is to  have 2 good PC's and test them both on your Router, do both fail?  (yes, borrow a PC or ask a friend to test your router for dead wifi and or dead ethernet)

I will not cover slow internet, you need to talk to your ISP about that,  they even sell speed grades, here in USA we have 4,16,24 and 32 channel modems and each has  speed and data cap, but my 1Gb/s 32channel has no data CAP.
Learn too that if you LAN is slower than the paid modem speeds you will run at the LAN speed, (sub LAN in your home)learn to upgrade your router and your PCs NIC card.

WIRED ETHERNET is the best Giglan we call it., fastest and the most easy to setup) In the world of high tech, always try simple first, then play wifi last, or never. In the wifi world 801.11-ac is best.
Ethernet can fail in many ways, too. (rare  unless hit by lighteninng)
1: Dead. or just dead on 1 of 4 router ports, this should tell you the router has a bad port.
2: Slow. (if router is old it will be same with old PC for sure with old 10/100 Mbit/s speed NIC cards inside or chips. slow is slow.
3:Missing jack? some new Notepads have no Ethernet port due to the PC  is just too thin.
4: if you run 2 PC's testing the  sublan speeds  with software like this and if slow then it is slow,  time to buy new network cards or a router or both rated for Gigalan speeds.  (2 cables ,2 PCs connected to 1 router (wired)
5: Ok my sublan is fast, but the internet is not,well that is a problem only your ISP can solve call them now.
Avoid dial up  and DLS or Satellite , best is FIOS (Fiber)  to the home and next is 32 channel cable modems (like mine 940Mb/s). {Arris SB9160)
Some rual folks only have Satellite so talk to

 (wired is super easy , called wired Ethernet)
plug it and and it will work !
You can in fact do many tests on your SUBLAN and make sure  it runs fast first.  PC to PC and even  plug PC directly into my CABLE modem bypassing the slow (or bad) Router to see if speeds go to spec max.
If speeds corrected above your  router is messed up.(or too old , old = slow)
If one PC fails only of say 2, then the ethernet driver on that PC is wrong, missing or corrupted, so replace the driver using your OEM web site, say it is go there get the driver and load it manually.
If the PCs Device manager shows the driver missing or marked bad, it is bad, so get it from your OEM and download it on any PC to a USB stick memory, then move it to the dead PC, dead Ethernet. and load it.
The ISP (yours) can own the MODEM only or IT and the ROUTER, or is ALL IN ONE (ROUTER/MODEM) if they own it then they get to fix it if it fails so call them if a 1second reset button press does not fix it.
In my case,  all hardware in my home is owned by me, modem and router, and all upgraded to  the best made. (so if the modem LED shows LINK ok then all problems are mine)
The ISP may even sell/rent you working wifi to the home, and that means call them if wifi fails.
Here are some simple steps for Etherent usage step by step.
Typical Examples of connections shown here:  Jack M is already connected to the ISP modem already , the ISP does that mostly, (in my case I DO)
Connect  JACK E, below (or any sublan jack 1 to 4 blue) to your PC seen on the right photo below. These RJ45 plugs have locks, so do not hank them out use the locking lever see there.

Photos:  Left is my ROUTER (very very common this)                                                                             This is a desktop Ethernet port, 
The CAT cable plugs in here, and snaps in, do not force it (for sure out)
Below is a very common PCI Ethernet card, used on very very old Desktops,  The best ones are GigaLan rated and PCIe slots. The below right photo a (not too old) Asus M5a99FX MOBO; see the 2 LED lamps in the socket?
this is the E jack , Ethernet with 8pins Gold.
A Photo of CAT5/6 RJ45 Ethernet connectors just  before the crimping  actions by me, yes I have the tool.(this is an advanced type of connector making the fit up more easy) Called  the E cable.
I am making my own cable now with my special tools. Most folks just buy a cable. But  home made are vastly cheaper, 10 cent connectors.

What if Ethernet fails.? It should not, but but doing OS upgrades to W10 this is super common for any upgrade to drop dead the driver for the old Ethernet Chip.
See here how to find hard to find old chip drivers.
As soon as I see my , E port dead, I do this: Try all E ports to be sure all E ports are dead not just one, if one is dead that port is blown out, so use the other ports.
If only one PC fails on this E port, then only this PC has problems.
I click Control Panel  in the start button, then pick device manager (DM) and then find this page below, photo3. (in the run box type devmgmt.msc)
See the DM photo below.
See "network adapters"  bingo.
Below is a LAN wired chip 82577   Ethernet gigabit,  and has no errors, and works, if you see it missing or  with any marked errors even the word Unknown that means the driver is bad, or missing.
My driver page covers this.
Photo:3: W10 DM.  (device manager is in the control panel)
If  a line is RED/YELLOW or Unknown or missing,  that is all bad drivers.
The 577 is my E chip, the next chip is wifi  in my case it is Centrino from intel.
Getting the above ETHERNET to work first , makes getting wifi up 10 times more easy, now that the internet is working. (PnP will start working  on ethernet and now the wifi driver auto load for you , automatically)
You found your chips real name, then got the correct to your  OS, the correct driver and now it works.

In most cases today the upgrade to W10 can in fact kill dead Ethernet, Wifi and Sound. even all 3. (best is to ask your OEM PC maker for W10 driver, say at or

The Task bar  Ethernet ICON will not have X marked across it, telling you the Ethernet is not dead here > no X mark in the E Icon means it's working.
To use ethernet with a PC with WIFI you need to disable wifi first, to get the ICON above.
Once ethernet works just unplug the cable and Wifi will next try to connect in the icon above, and shows new ICON looks like Antenna..  If wifi fails read on.

We enter here, at this point Ethernet works and the wireless driver in DM above is
not dead.
To fix wifi in your PC, first make sure the driver is loaded. (and not missing or corrupted , best it to fresh load it now) as seen here.
We look to see if the WIFI card (or dongle) is not missing, too.
Next is the windows setup (W10)
  • Click control panel (in the start run box type control)
  • Click network &sharing center.
  • click Setup a new connection.
  • Click "manually connect to a wireless network(IF MISSING THAT MEANS THE WIFI DRIVER IS DEAD OR MISSING or the wifi card is missing in its slot or USB port as the case may be)
  • Bingo do this. The SSID here is FIDO2.  (a dogs name or whatever you want) Then WPA2 and last very important is the key (pass word) write it down  now. Check the 2 boxes.
We set this up after the Router is setup first. (if the router is setup then this is all you need here)
Learn that vast numbers of laptops and all desktops have no wifi card at all , it was an OPTION then so what we do is look for it , and if missing buy one.
A USB wifi dongle is $3.

Next up is how to set up your router or wifi access point the why you want. Using the above credentials.

WIFI (wireless LAN WLAN):
Step 2, WiFi... wireless. I will do this manually for best security, no wizards do I  trust for wifi ever.
Next is configuring the Router, wireless pages. (I assume it's your router no the ISP and you know its password)
  1. Read the manual on your , router, mine is DIR655,  I read the manual and it tells me my router page is here.  Most router new , you power up and the LAN  is running now and firewall is in full protection.
  2. Page 16 tells me IP address is my page address. ,so paste that into any browser I use FF v66 firefox. and land on the Routers home page, login.
  3. The user name is admin and  the password is blank (changed my PW day 1, to "something secret" and write it down, ok?)
  4. I click Setup, click wireless settings top left. click manual wireless setup (bottom of page)
  5. Bingo you are there.See below settings,  These are best .
  6. Set the side to your DOG name or whatever floats your boat.  FIDO2, Is one silly example. Do not use same names as others seen in your hood.
  7. Next I pick a channel not used in the hood most.  (least used) Ch6 is  good guess. (if auto mode fails try using 1 channel this is clear in your HOOD)
  8. Avoid WEP, totally use WPA1 or 2.and last pick a KEY (use words not in any dictionary, like 1$xy59!@z, use what you want but do write it down,for all home users and Cell phones.
  9. Save settings first then exit setup and at any cell phone you can now see FIDO2 and connect easy. and last you PC does the same. (FIDO2, WPA, Key) 1,2,3 you are in.
  10. On the PC make sure its not in airplane mode. (wifi off nor off in BIOS) then do the setups, in said PC. FIDO2, WPA, and key) bingo you are now connected via WIFI.
Photo 5 Dir-655,
This is my router,  yours will be functionally the same, but total different pretty screens and have it's own login rules. (and IP address)

I kept this as short and sweet as possible.  (I don't use WPS , read you router manual to set up wireless protected setup and PIN) I consider WPS to be non secure.
If all this works, now the Internet works 2 ways, now, wired and wireless.
Best is to know how to use both, so you can fix problems as they arise.

At your PC say Windows 10.
How to switch back and forth from Wifi and wired (Ethernet)? {even both at the same time works}
This way below works best after setting it up in control panel first seen here.
Steps below: Clicks.
  • On the task bar double click this tiny connection icon (as see here, double left click this red arrow icon and pick any network you own (means have sign in credentials to)
  • Way 2 is next,, Push start  menu  and pick "Settings" (in the windows key usage , menu  Settings is in the "S" section )
  •  Then in the new W10 Setting menu pick , "network & Internet"
  • Then see the below menu,  if  Wi-Fi is missing that means your wifi drivers are missing wrong or corrupted, the cure is obvious; reload them fresh from HP.
  • If HP did not make your Wi_Fi device, then get the driver from you maker, of said device, 100 of makers, so, only you know what you bought and installed.
  • If said device is a USB -WiFi dongle, you need to get USB working first then get the correct driver from the dongle maker.
  • See the left side here,  If I click Ethernet I can use that to connect to it. Below is my 2 WI-FI routers, daisy chained on my GigaLAN , FIDO1 and 2.
  • I am on Ethernet now, but if I was to click Fido1 and connect it would then be on Wi-Fi. If this way fails do it this way above in control panel.

The below  is showing I am connected to Ethernet now.

Why WIFI is so hard to use and keep working,  WIFI is a problem child, unlike Ethernet, wired.
  See jamming  and interference , here.

Let me list them. WIFI can be super unreliable in a big city what vast persons sharing 10 channels and huge electrical noise in this region. (crazy RFI)
  1. Drivers bad.  This is not jamming but if the wrong driver is used , it may use  the wrong channels for your country.
  2. You are too far from the Router antenna's   even 50 feet is too far and if using bricks or concrete walls and worst of all steel walls or REBAR concrete fitted walls will  block RF signals easy. See how here.
  3. Lots of neighbors use you channels,  so use a different  radio band/channels , move higher see photo 5 above?, Use this program to see them all, and then move to a quiet channel.
  4. Interference,  Radios inside many devices, can jam wifi and BlueTooth(tm) can be jammed,  called RFI , Radio Frequency Interference.   (see this list of offenders)
  5. One tactic that works well,  is to kill the power to all rooms in the house, but the one AC power  jack running your router/modem,  does wifi work now? BINGO.  RFI  is real.
  6. Not running dual band WIFI ! single band is a relic, upgrade now.  (and for sure MU-MIMO routers)
  7. Even street lights in the hood can in fact jam wifi,  the ones with choppers inside,  just like the LED desk lamps used in your rooms  and are very bad RFI emitters.
  8. Some florescent lamp fixtures, have some very nasty electronic  digital ballast device inside, (not the nice transformer kinds) and it's really this very noisy  chopper inside,  ditch them for CLASS B rated devices, FCC.
  9. Old relic baby monitors also Jam 2.4GHz radio band,  This band is super busy.  Avoid all 2.4GHZ , other devices in the home that are not wifi devices.
  10. Learn to that wifi is  a SHARED resource , and is in public shared  too.  Wifi uses collision rules, that if overloaded/over crowded ,this causes it to run VASTLY SLOW.
  11. Use  wired LAN connections, any time you can and avoid all this PAIN.  Use WiFi only as a last resort. (or  as backup communication's)
  12. One way to reduce your RFI noise is to buy home devices that have real FCC (USA) Class B certifications. (no lies from China saying ,so but are not) Even those cheap imported screw in florescent lamps make noise. (Class A)
  13. Some close neighbors can have super powered (1000mW ) routers that drown you out,  so move your router to channels far from them.
(1)The word kill above means flip the circuit breakers to OFF,  I have my router and modem on a UPS and I can run laptop on battery power and test the wifi with all power to the home cut dead, testing for wifi noise.
or unplug all things in all rooms 1 by 1,. (all power cords unplugged from walls, all lamps in the room off, as a test only) (but no the router or modem and the PC under test)
Wifi can have a very limited range as low as 50 feet.  (or none through solid or worse REBAR failed concrete or bricks.)
We can also upgrade the router to one that puts out full 1watt wifi power. 10x more. (D-link Dir-879)
The real hard nut cases , you can't turn off the power to a neighbors home to find who is jamming your WIFI.
But you can change channels in your router if you own it. Sure can. See wifi radar below and jamming next.

Last and not least is the WIFI RADAR , I call it that,  the executable file is called  Inssider.exe (mine is the older free version v2, and is very good)
It does not see jamming (or RFI) say from a baby monitor or any other non wifi noise sources. (it sees only wifi data)
See jamming here.
We run this program (app) older versions are  free, goggle it.  (your wifi chip/card but be working and not in airplane mode)
This is you and your neighbors, wifi broadcasts. (the photo below is random found ., not mine)
The SSID is your WIFI name, from your router.
The place to be is here, on dead unused  channels; see why?, less traffic. In my hood , I'm on the upper band, 2.4GHz, the 5GHz band suffers poor range and for sure through walls. (but is good have 2 band wifi end to end)
If you run the program on any laptop and on battery power you can walk from your router and see the RF signals  drop (RSSI)eg -74 is weak,  as it drops data speeds slow and far enough the link disconnects.|
Trick 2 is use channels that are weak,  below the bottom of this list are the weak channels , and you can use them with great advantages. (you strong, they weak) WIFI is radio technology.
9 Access points seen. Using WEP is a bad idea in my opinion, it has been cracked/hacked. I keep my  router WEP mode, DISABLED . In city this page is HUGE, and and some channels OVERLOADED BIG TIME.
My router is set to wpa/wpa2, only, and with huge passphrase using no dictionary words at all. 
(Today I run Cisco RV320 router (zero wifi) a  powered, BRIDGE D-link DIR-879 wireless router set up as WiFi extended wired  Access Point AP.)
 This is located in center of home and serves our cell phones , offloading 3G data caps say on Verizon.
The below device does NOT see alien jammers, only wifi overloading.
Those are base bands,  or to a HAM guy and RF Carrier bands 2.4GHz, is here. (and channels) USA channels only here.  I set mine on CH#5 and gain clear bandwidth there.
If you have 2 routers or 1 and  a wifi AP access point set one on a different channel.  Avoid that left yellow channel all the folks use due to ignorance.
RSSI  is the signal strength, use this on your laptop and see how your signal drops as you move around your house. The higher the colored signal goes the stronger it is,  -20 is very strong.
dBm is Decibels , related to 1 milliwatt power , higher than -80 is best,
If use the above program set to 5GHz tab, and  you move around the home, you will see that this band hates walls even more than 2.4. (easy as pie to test this theory using the free program above)
The worse case WIFI is in  high rise building with 1000 of wifi devices.(all fighting for 1 channel you are on)

Security and WIFI danger.
Do not use WEP it is insecure. (WPA2 is best)
In the router turn off ACCESS POINT and Pin codes, (the button on the side of the router, WPS, is now dead )  Wifi protected setup OFF.
Never use WEP encryption.
Always have pass phrase to log in to WIFI with 8-10 characters and ever use dictionary words ever.
Get a good router or update it so the KRACK , exploit  is not  there. (keeping remote access off and WPS is fast way to avoid KRACK)
Turn off remote access management  in the router
Turn WAN PING off,  (do not let the web hackers Ping YOU ever!)
Guest zone off, and DMZ off.
Have no holes in your Routers Fire wall, unless you know how to do that safely.
Never use  a  simple modem directly, always have  are router firewall there and setup clean.
Always keep the firmware in your router fresh and the most current. (go to the makers web site, and read what is newest here, directly and do get the KRACK fix as soon as it comes out)
And worse of all, running a 100% OPEN AD HOC wifi with zero security and no passwords. (you be doomed)

WIFI devices are not all equal, lets see what works best, of many devices, ("AC" grade is the lowest grade to choose (not b/g/n) but needs be supported at  the router and the PC.)
First off 5G means WLAN wide area networks like Cell phones use, 5GHz is one RF band of WIFI they are NOT RELATED at all. (sure wireless both but wlan is NOT WIFI)

Running old  801/N: or worse B/G is not going to fast. (avoid class N or  lower older  service or for sure B/G) See this why wifi stinks page, (learn it live it)
First off wifi is Radio signals and the closer to the router you are the faster it goes (so close the range or buy an wired bridges WIFI AP  access point closer to the (TV:?)
"N" grade wifi likes to slow down to 1/2 speed due to rule red bullet #3 here and channel bonding drop outs  for all those funny reasons.
Wifi runs in  a collision domain on the channels you choose, and if others overload this channel(s) then it goes slow or even stalls, or your funny neighbor cause your silly  "N" class router drop bonding. (one guy had to turn off the Kindel book pad)
Home full of INTENET OF THINGS, and expect "N" to run full speed?, you are a dreamer and will have problems. (just goes slow)
You don't own wifi, it is a shared resource in the home and outside too. That is right you do not own the air waves, sorry to break the ice there. ok?
The antenna you chose for your wifi card, matters, for rage/speeds,  there are many antenna type used, some are good, for sure if outside the PC case or on a shelf above the PC with coax cables run from card to antenna.(or the cute usb wifi winner below.
2.4GHz band goes farther and through walls best but 5.8Ghz does not, but sure both can help if you have a 2 baseband wifi (AC) 801.11"ac"

Here are some common choices,  (most laptops the antenna's  are inside the laptop and the antenna in the lid and live there for the remainder of its life.
Some lame cheap laptops with a 2 antenna card there the OEM only wired up one antenna and runs slow for the reset of its life. (seen it)
The Desktops have far more choices,  for sure with fancy PCI-express cards  Class "AC" Most folks will like the RED card below.

Lets look at USB  dongles from worst to best all are CLASS "AC" Wifi  , the tiny one is a dog (slow) cheap and slow. then the next is shared stacked antenna, far better.

Note: 2 benefits here , 2 antennas and external to the case (vastly better this is)

The winner is here, USB with 1.5meters USB cable so you plant it up high for better preformance.!

Wifi Sucks swap gas?: (why?) , yes I will now go in to more details. below.
The reasons are 3 fold caused.
1: Wifi is Radio technology and can  fail for interference from other radio sources on the same bands, (baby monitors , old wireless phones or other things that are malfunctioning)
2: You have too many neighbors and they all have tons of wifi devices, and toys and the channels are jammed. (wifi is shared radio channel resource)
3: User ignorance, of  not knowing what to do, or not learning to use channels that are not overloaded. read on.

Most homes have only 2 Radio bands to use, or less. (2.4 and 5GHz bands)
Most homes are now using spec.  Wifi, (802.11a/h/j/n/ac/ax) systems, end to end. (b/g/n is old tech now) ac and up are best. (but work backwards too to older tech)
That fact is  the channels 5GHz.  may suck the most, as it gets weaker faster through walls and for sure brick or concrete walls. (and slows down) 2.4G works better. (but both are best for sure AC rated)
The program Inssider.exe shows all channels and loading factor, and shows you the channels least used,  that you then change your router to use.
No lie, the  2 bands are best or more, slow is better than DEAD.
The most common complaint is Netflix is slow, (shows buffering) Why use Wifi at all here? But texting works great, well gee whiz, texting uses almost zero bandwidth.
The speed of wifi drops as you walk your PC farther from the router, so wize folks buy a Access Point ,AP that is a wired bridge to their router, and put it in those slow weak zones. ( has lots of these for sale)
Wifi also fails if you neighborhood is really dense, with everyone is on the  same band or worse same channels. see Insidder.exe running above, in my photo.
Wifi channels are SHARED in the in your neighborhood, and gets worse every year, do to the vast expansion of "internet of things" more toys ,even silly wifi toys and refrigerators.
Wifi can be jammed with other non wifi devices, like baby monitors , kids toy cars, and the like (endless toys)  or old home land line , wireless phones.
Learn what internet of things means,  picture your neighbor has 5 web cams,  and wifi connected refrigerator, and even the oven, and 5 kids, with (7 with mom/dad) with cell phones on wifi and watching steaming video. (and 3 Kindles and 2 NOOKS)
If  you find that shared channels are overloaded above, you can move to other channels , in your routers setup pages.(or wifi Access point) 
One way to get better wifi is to  buy and install wired WIFI expander access points, and put them all over the house, mine are wired off a hub switch radially.  Each with a unique SSID and same PW.
Wifi can be great if say in rural setting and all bands are clear and clean.  (the Marketers lie and use this as an  example for speed.)
Last ,if your wifi works great,  then use it and don't read why it loves to fail here..., this page is NOT for you .
One possible cure is a more powerful wifi router.(see why?) 1000mW wifi access points are great to own. "AC"wifi grade. not "N" or slow grades.
The only way to find and cure non PC caused jamming is to own a $500 spectrum analyzer seen below, (portable with antenna) to find who what and where the jammer located. (FYI)

This device is expensive but finds them all. (a spectrum analyzer shows all noise and jamming signals)
We use Wifi here in our home only for CELL phone backup from 3/5g , drops to wifi. 
We know better than to fuss with wifi.  (use Inssider to see what's going on, but does not see JAMMING from non wifi sources like the below does.)
Remember that Inssider only SEES WIFI signals, not jamming or noises nor alien devices illegally on this wifi channels. (but is free and works great mostly in all cases, lacking jamming) (jamming can be on purpose or by accident)
To common non wifi jammers (by accident) are baby rooms monitors (sound , or video or both) and those old landline remote phones. Table LED lamps can have very huge noise signals, RFI, that can cause  trouble.Usage is simple (but expensive , rent one)
This device is expensive but shows all things even wifi alien devices that are jamming your wifi channels.
The spectrum analyzer
by turning off  AC power panel circuit breakers you find the offending room that is jamming wifi. (very impossible to force neighbors to do that) so is limited by that.
Things you have that can jam your Wifi or your neighbors jam you. (RFI = Radio Frequency Interference)
Mostly old old legacy device used in a modern world.
Toy remote controlled cars, toy air planes, copters and the like with RF radio controls.
Baby monitors (sound/video or both) or camera monitors of any kind using RF radios channels, near 2.4GHz.
Old land line home wireless phones can jam wifi. (has hand set , and base station and remotes) unplug it. (and remove batteries inside to make it 100% totally DEAD)
SOME LED lamps and florescent lamps can have very badly designed power supply inside (choppers),  not   FCC part B certified or  the  no name makers 12,000 miles away (dig?) lied. (as sold on fleabay) 
I have a desk LED desk lamp that could be named RFI NOISE JAMMER from  H3LL.

One HAM radio trick (learned) is to kill power in the home "@ dah Breakers", room by room (not the AP) and see if WIFI wakes up, if yes, the turn that room back on then unplug each thing in that room 1 by 1 ,even toys batteries removed)
Some computer monitors very (20yo)old CRT are noise makers too. ( or older than 2010) CCFL based LCD screens some are very RFI noisy.(any thing with chopper power supplies are suspected by me)
Wireless speakers for the home TV. (mine uses 2.4GHZ) so turn it off  see if TV's wifi wakes up?

And last your condo neighbor has 50 wifi devices in his home and all use channel one?,  so get the hell off channel one.
Netflix fails, or stalls or shows buffering or acts oddly is wifi messing up. (don't use Wifi , but do use Ethernet wired and never see Buffering ever again! None here for 3 years +)
If you must use WIFI move the WIFI access point closer to the TV , even on top of the TV on shelf above there.  (3feet is best)
The best AC access point (or extender) is CAT5/6 Eternet wired directly to the Router or to you cable modem .  (wifi to wifi bridges are a pain to setup and very problematic)

Choices:, you don't like wired Ethernet, (why?)
Well then GET WIRELESS  3/4/5G. Say from Version. (T-Mobile, etc)
Using this. (random picked by me, From Verizon, gee ask your Cell Phone service provider for a USB 3G modem they sell and support)  end wifi /wireless blues.

You are at home.  , not sitting in say StarBucks™ drinking their burnt coffee bean juice nor at the Air port or at WORK.
You are using your own router or wifi access point at home and is not ISP rented nor ISP locked out buy your ISP (internet service provider)
You should know your WIFI Credentials, if not reset you router and set it up fresh and new.
You  were smart and first downloaded the PDF book on your router and have it  ready to read in your document folders.
You are close to the router say withing 50 feet, and no brick walls between you and the router, AP. (AP means wifi Access Point) LEARN THAT 5GHz channel hates walls of any kind and brick is worse.
The channels are complex so read this.(world wide in scope)
There 6 choices of ISP (internet service provider)  here,  Dial-up,  DSL, SAT modem, cable modem with 1 to 32 channel cable,  FIOS or 3/4g wireless cards (WWLAN)(or USB wireless stick?)
There are at least 6 ways to get internet service.  (pick one and be happy)  And has 100% coverage of USA, and most of Alaska. (so do not lie and say you have no service, as seen on TV cry babies)
Even 3/4G covers lots of USA.
I will assume you have a (ISP)  modem and works perfectly wired with ethernet. (if not call your ISP and get it setup or reset or cured)
If say the kids played with the modem, Do this.
  • Plug back in the RF CABLE connection first. (righty tighty/ lefty loosey)
  • Then next, plug in the AC power line or power pack to live AC power on the home wall outlet, no power strips, is best.
  • Then wait, 5 to 30 minutes for the ISP magic to happen (means the modem gains the new configurations files from the ISP) The LEDs on mine even tell me connected !LED ICON of a GLOBE+grid marks. the WWW.
  • Connect the PC  (or TV) to the modem Ethernet jack, using a Cat5/6 cable. See it does work.  As always.
  • Last connect the modem to your router same cable and test that using ethernet first and wifi last. (use the correct router port to modem or it will fail <WLAN marked)
If the modem is new it will not work unless you:

Call the ISP and first connect up with the wired Ethernet cable to your Router, jack or test this cable directly to you cable modem.
Most ISP mandate this call up, let me tell you way,  the reason is so bad guys don't buy 2 modems and gain free 2x  bandwidth,  see?  you paid for 1 , not 2 modems connected.
How ever a fully setup modem can be unpluged and reconnected at any time and not problems. (only new modem must be setup with the ISP)
Some never modems (ARRIS) have serial number and this allows ISP to see it and block out , a 2nd one,(connected at the same time)  and have auto setup methods now that can do this magic  (smarter is better and lower support costs , a win win)
They may  also record you serial numbers in there Trivial Server and may allow faster connections, as long as 2 are not connected at once. (paying for 1) these rules are evolving and varies by ISP.

Jargon, all technology is full of these tech words.
ISP = Internet service provider
SSID = is you broadcast NAME or service set identifier
RF = Radio Frequencies. (RFI , is interference)
3/4/5G (see wiki on 5G) and can fall back as used to 3G  and even below that. This is Wireless comm;'s not wifi  (Wireless is long range , wifi is 100meters max mostly way less)
ISP = internet service provider be that Dial up, Cable modem,  Verizon? 5G, FIOS , or SAT.
Jamming , any source on or near your channel band (RF) or by harmonics , that is by accident or on purpose  (lots or toys do this by accident, RC radio control cars, wireless land line telephones)

Now a top reasons to fail wifi list: (shorter than all the above) THE LOGICAL hit list.  (when I say PC below that means any computer based device made be it desk/laptops or  notepads, Cell phones or TV's or even ROKU dongles)
I can not know what you have or own, in your home, but in my home I own everything end to end and even all wiring, I even have manyu GIGALAN switches in my attic that puts Gigalan Ethernet  in each room with RJ45 wall plate and jack.
There are many folks that just don't do that and pay RENT charges for the the reset of there lives, (sad no) $15,000 dollars in 50 years of payments adds up, no? (why rent with the ROI is like 2 months for each  box, why?)
The average home user now has a modem and router,  and the home owner owns nothing, at all just their PC or TV. Some homes have just one box. (a dual router/modem/wifi box) this box is owned by the ISP. Internet service provider.
In my case a true owner, I upgrade to ISP max speed to 940mb/second speeds but my old modem is  1/2 speed,  this is my problem not theirs, I then removed my old 16 channel model and put in a new 32 channel modem for $50 and now get full and expected bandwidth.   Wifi is 100% my job, my responsiblity and my hardware, and my find Cisco router and my WIFI access point AP. end to end and we use Wifi  only as a backup. (after all wifi stinks  done wrong  )
If own nothing call your ISP only they can fix their  end , their setups and their hardware, if only 1 device in the home fails then fix that  device you own. (TV , PC or what ever it is , it needs to be repaired or simply adjusted)
  • All wifi and ethernet dead, call your ISP or pay the bill.  (or plug it in and reset it? even reseat all cables, most modems can take 5 to 30minutes to gain ISP configurations and paid speed channels !!!!) (I have 32 channel Arris model)
  • If you learn to test Ethernet speeds first and that fails for speed, why would you expect wifi to be fast or faster. (IT CAN NOT)
  • YOUR ISP does not control the internet nor do the own it!, they only can provide a fast connection, so internet speeds are not theirs to claim. Just like Ford motor company does not own every Road in the USA and  control speeds same. Sorry that is reality.
  • Surprise that  old laptop has no Wifi card inside it, as most did not year 2000  to year 2010 or more. Look first,  then blame, then leap. (vast Laptops it was an option for a decade more)
  • The PCs WiFI  driver is missing or corrupted   missing or the wrong one, contact your OEM PC provider and get the correct drivers. (Wifi Software Drivers must match YOUR HARDWARE)
  • You forgot your Wifi credentials. SSID or Password.?  (Forgot to write them down on paper, or kids reset your  router,  or the router is not yours to control you rent it from ISP) Call the ISP for help, if not their router, read the manual and set it as you  like.
  • The PC is infected with Virus/Malware. (endless and ageless problem this....the cure is  reload windows.
  • Wifi is getting jammed.( why not test Ethernet first , wired)?
  • Your wifi router is too old  and or the system wifi end to end is too old and was always slow (2.4G speed only) or you are too far from the router or too many walls from router to you. (move closer to your router or move the router to you) best is upgrade.
  • Not upgrading YOUR wifi system to mesh or like me using many wired, Ethernet to AP , in our home all Access points are all gigalan  wired back to the main router. So all AP are fast as  they can be, see?
  • If still confused? and at wits end, call your ISP or call for any PC store in town to do a service call in WIFI. (they have tools that you do not have)

Now the amazing fact that WIFI channels (allowed) varies by country, sorry the USA, FCC.GOV does not rule the world yet, (lol) Federal Communications Commission
At least 18 Wifi regions exist on earth by LAW.
Learn that wifi  is just RADIO . (based) and as such is controlled by laws, in the USA  it is the FCC.
Each country decides what channel RF frequences can be used for wifi and the 5GHz band is even more complex in this regard. (like power rules)
Many countries even allow a channel, but only at very low power, that means super short ranges. (or not allowed at all) <<< read that again.
So if you live in say New Zealand and buy router from USA< guess what channels will fail, or far worse the poor router or DEVICE? gets lost. (means confused)
The cure is simple do not buy routers on EBAY from the WRONG REGION !.   (kinda like buying used DVD's with a wrong Region code,  simple region logic, but vastly more complex)
I would say nothing beats this great world wide WiFi page by WIKI. (a  prime grade page read it and learn)

Oh my golly gee,  the  canard "Throttling":
Yes, they might throttle and is not a bad thing, it stops hogs. (like in a Movie theater, you see the usher , stop a cell phone user, same thing same simple reasons, the hogs in the hood.
If the brain (the throttling algorthm) sees hogs and it is YOU, it might Slow you down.  (mostly  rare thing, but is REAL)
The goal is quality of service to ALL users  not to JUST YOU.
The ISP modem here,  has 32 channels, and if all are overloaded, every users suffers on those 32 channels. ( They are only doing the best they can, with shared resources) LET THEM.

version 5------------------------------ 11-19-2017    ( revised 8-30-2019)  added alien wifi.